Another day in paradise / Freo, but unfortunately my last in Australia. I’m packing up and flying back to Marin tonight, which I’m really excited about, but I must say that I’m terribly sad to be leaving Oz. I feel safe in saying, today, that this has been one of the best trips I’ve ever taken, and I’ve been around the block a bit.

Australia is magical in so many ways – geography, weather, ocean and mountains, its people and its entire vibe. Comparisons with the States are inevitable, so here goes if you’re interested – Australia is far more civilized than the States. I didn’t meet, or see one person in my five weeks of travel here raise their voice or act in a rude or nasty manner towards anyone else. That includes adults and their children, who are astoundingly chilled and well-behaved compared to many I’ve seen back home.

In the States, a lot of people act as though they’re being put upon constantly (and many, in fact, are) – ground down under the pressures of work, family, life, etc. I never saw or felt that down under. People smile all the time, are cheery and super friendly, and it absolutely is not an act. It’s just the way everyone is here because life is so darned good. Wouldn’t you like to hit the beach and surf every day, for goodness’ sake, before heading off to the office or whatever else you’re doing? I sure would, and am gonna adopt the Aussie way of living and being happy and grateful all the time back in Marin. Shouldn’t have sold my surfboard last year, but another with my name on it most assuredly awaits…

The disparity in wealth and the two and three income workers so common in the States doesn’t appear to exist in Australia. People work one job, are paid well, have ample vacation time (and travel very widely) and don’t pay for many of the things Americans must – higher education, medical care and retirement (superannuation, as it’s called in Australia, is akin to the days when American companies paid pensions (remember that word?) to their employees, as in a defined benefit plan, without the employee having to fund them and stress over how they’ll be able to live in retirement). It works really well, and it’s wonderful. Do shareholders and senior management make a killing? Likely not, but that’s not what life is all about here. We could definitely take a lesson or ten from the Aussies here. Life is short, and I’ve never believed that we’re born to work until we drop dead. Not for me, mate. I totally get Australia’s values and paradigm, and absolutely love them.

These differences, I believe, make a huge difference to the fabric of life in both countries. In the States, people are consumed with obtaining and increasing wealth, and it is unfortunately, as we know,  a zero sum game. When the pie is redistributed, as it has so dramatically been over the past forty years in the States, there are most assuredly winners and losers. I believe that Donald Trump or someone like him could never appeal to as many people as he does if something very serious wasn’t wrong with the state of affairs back home.

I could go on and on, but another poignant difference is that people just aren’t disagreeable here. No one I met, and we met scores and scores of folks in our travels, acts as though you’re goring their ox if you disagree with them. It goes back to my core belief, forever, that you can disagree with others without being disagreeable. That is a bedrock reality here, but unfortunately not in the States. Another big difference is that people appear to be far closer to each other in wealth and income here than in the States. Venues, stadiums, beaches, parks, museums, restaurants and pretty much all the places that Aussies go are cheerfully shared and used by everyone in total harmony, and they’re beautiful places, all. In the States, there is an exclusivity about so many places. That kind of sucks for those who don’t or can’t go to them. This is a night and day difference – Aussies are all part of one big, happy team. In the States, many folks (some with bankrolls like the Yankees) with a lot of the pie live in a separate social and financial world, and don’t interact with vast numbers of their countrymen. That just can’t help but breed isolation and resentment. Think about it…

There, I’m off my soap box now… Time for fun recollections. Coogee Beach – ten miles south of Freo. The Surf Club there and everywhere (there’s one in every beach town) is a true community center – a really cool combination health club, gym, restaurant and place where everyone, old and young, hang out together in real happiness and camaraderie.

“Come on in – the water’s great.” Whoa.

Freo’s Shipwreck Museum. First one I’ve ever seen. Totally cool.

It’s said that this bloke was dispatched by great whites deep down, after drowning, then pieced back together by the marine archeologists who found him long after his unfortunate demise.

Dutch hull and Greek arch (huh?). Didn’t intuitively grasp the connection.

On the Esplanade. Art is everywhere in Freo, and it’s fun and inviting.

This was cast, no doubt, prior to the Elle McPherson era. Her doubles are everywhere down under. Amazing.

Freo’s fishing fleet – serious stuff. The seafood is so fresh and good here. Now I know why.

Neat story here. While walking out on Freo’s jetty and stopping for photos, I dropped my beloved Ray-Bans into the rocks. Down they went – 6 feet or more – and I couldn’t for the life of me even see a trace of them from where I stood and squirmed around, peering downward at every possible angle. Totally bummed, I kept at it, determined not to leave them to the sea. Finally, just before giving up and crying in my beer, I spied the very end of one of the earpieces. I headed back to a nearby shipyard and asked a fellow there if he had any stiff wire. “Of course, mate – be right back” was his reply. Five minutes later, I was back on the jetty and, miraculously, snagged my shades on the first try with the bent end of the baling wire we’d fashioned. That totally made my day, as the sun and water were super bright and I just didn’t want to say goodbye to my Aviators. A great rescue. Reminded me of my lifeguarding days on the beach out east…

I didn’t know, and hadn’t heard, what a didgeridoo was until we strolled into this local shop where we chatted up the owner, bought boomerangs and learned that they are very large native wind instruments still widely used throughout the country. Cool.

Back at my fave watering hole, again. What a neat name. No idea where it came from, but it must be a funny story.

Well, I guess the trip is now a wrap. I’m sitting in Melbourne’s airport, having a terrific cup of coffee after flying from Perth last night (Aussies absolutely love their coffee and really know how to make it), waiting for my flights to LA and San Francisco. This journey has been absolutely fantastic, far exceeding my expectations in every way imaginable. I’m so glad that I came and experienced what I have.

Thanks to everyone for following me on this jaunt. It has really felt good to have the connection with friends and family back home these past five weeks, and I appreciate it greatly. I’m already planning my next adventure, and one thing is sure – I’ll be back down under – no question about it. Although I covered a lot of ground during my stay – over 12,000 miles by road and quite a bit more in the air, I feel that I’ve barely scratched Australia’s magnificent surface in terms of its fabulous geographic, social and cultural riches. G’day, mates. It’s been a blast, and I can’t wait till my next visit to Oz.

Cheers,

Rich

 

 

Arrived in Perth Sunday night and headed to my hotel. Yesterday I woke up and poked around a bit before heading to Perth’s neighbor Fremantle (“Freo,” as locals affectionately call it), said by many to be the coolest town in Australia. That would be saying a lot, but it’s true, and I’ve seen a ton of cool towns on this trip.

Perth, early Monday morning. Really nice architecture and skyline, but cities are cities in many ways to me, so I was soon off to the beach. Itchin’ for some coastline again…

Cottesloe Beach, ten minutes from downtown Perth. A big storm moved through yesterday with 12′ swells. Today, the wind changed to offshore, things calmed down a bit and lots of surfers were out there with big grins.

Contemplating life. And the next ride…

This dude was hands down the coolest guy I’ve met in a while. He had a shower with hot water in his SUV, so after ripping it up out there he rinsed off, changed into natty threads and headed to work. Brilliant, mate.

Talk about a target-rich environment for photographing – Freo just blew me away. First stop was Fremantle Prison, opened in 1860 and closed in 1991. Yes – this medieval place stayed open until that recently. It was fascinating and chilling at the same time to visit the place, knowing how central to Australia’s history prisoners, convicts and their stories have always been. We had a terrific guide, whose knowledge of the place and story telling were totally enthralling.

Convict Church. Funny how the Church of England tortured and tormented the Crown’s prisoners throughout the world for centuries, including extracting slave labor from them, yet always provided the balm of religion and its message that you are loved and God will always be beside you.

Solitary confinement cell. Not a lot of room for stretching out here…

Inside the cell of an artist convict, who was allowed to ply his trade in his new home. I assume that he bribed the guards or played their girlfriend…

Death row cellblock. This cell was the last one you ever entered, for only two hours, the morning you met your maker at 8:00 am sharp in the gallows (don’t be late – it’s so impolite). The bucket beside the stool was for doing your (last) business. This cell’s starkness and raw power were absolutely chilling.

More artwork, in an outside recreation area where the notorious 1988 prison riot was hatched.

The gallows. No prisoner ever walked out of here. They were carried out in body bags after a shot of rum and the tightening of the noose sealed their fate. Wow – talk about focusing the mind…

Back in town, out and about. This little girl was wailing seconds before, but was just adorable when I locked my lens on her.

Totally tricked-out 1980 BMW R100S. Sweet ride. Chatted bikes with its owner for a while.

Native art. Galleries in town are fantastic.

Sidewalk marker.

Architectural whimsy in the process of being born beside stately neighbors.

Fremantle Battery and its original prison, overlooking the harbor. Man, these guys just loved locking people up.

Slipping into the zeitgeist… Definitely not an enjoyable feeling.

Say this three times fast. And I thought German was hard to pronounce.

Mens’ Room at the Battery. Magnificent.

Of what? Getting hit by a train?

A professor and his students chillin’ at an outdoor cafe close to Notre Dame, a local university that gives Freo a terrific, youthful vibe.

Peering inside a building on campus.

Monument to Portugese explorers who helped found Fremantle. Didn’t know they were part of its story.

The grand ferris wheel in Esplanade Park. This was big – each car held ten people.

More native art. I felt as though she was calling out to me.

Mark, the owner of a truly fantastic vinyl record store in town. Had to stop in and chat with him for a bit after hearing the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack album blasting from inside as we strolled by. Super guy.

Lots of bikes in Freo.

Little Creatures Brewing on Freo’s Esplanade. This VW pick up parked at the entrance really grabbed my attention, reminding me of Burning Girl, my 1978 VW Westy camper.

Chris, our bartender. Fun guy.

Freo folks just wanna have fun… Wish we were here for the fest. Wait – maybe we’ll just stay and wait a couple of weeks for it…

View from Little Creatures’ rear patio.

Two really fun local characters we chatted up for a bit. Both worked on the sea.

Just loved that Vee Dub.

Another fantastic day in a place I’ll definitely come back to. Make sure you see Fremantle if your travels take you down under. It truly rocks. Talk mañana…

 

 

Yesterday was a travel day – Hobart to Sydney to Perth (flying from Hobart to Perth requires a layover in one of Australia’s other major cities), but we had the morning to kick around in Hobart. It’s such a charming town in every way – its location, architecture, setting beneath Kunanyi (ancestral name) / Mr. Wellington and the people make it fantastic. Decided to head up there – 4,176′ above town via a very steep and winding road, but first we took a stroll around the harbor and had breakfast.

Breakfast restaurant. Fish for breakfast? You bet, mate.

A little-known fact – Hobart is Lester’s ancestral homeland. And yes, that also makes him a Tasmanian Devil (but we knew that).

Leaving the harbor, looking up towards Mt. Wellington.

Half way up, and the weather’s perfect. Not for long.

Winter bade a chilly hello as we climbed the road. This was only ten minutes from downtown’s harbor, where it was 60 degrees and sunny.

Quite cold up top and pretty much completely socked in, so we headed down after a short stay.

Here’s a map of my travels in Tasmania. There’s so much more to see, so I’ll have to come back. It really is magical here, and they’ve kept it so pristine and inviting. See you next time, Tassie….