Sa Pa is completely unlike anywhere I’ve been so far on this trip. It’s in the farthest northern reaches of Vietnam, only ten miles from the Chinese border. It sits at 4,691′ elevation and neighbors Vietnam’s highest peak – Mount Fansipan – at 10,311′ above sea level. Big vert….

There are five different ethnic tribal groups here – the Hmong, Dao, Tay, Giay and Xa Pho. The Vietnamese from the lowlands – known as the Kinh – never colonized the highest valleys of the north.

The weather here is completely different than everywhere I’ve been – mid to high 40’s, totally fogged in and very damp. Haven’t been able to see Mount Fansipan or my hand because of the weather, which is a bit of a drag, but no worries – I know they’re there.

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These women sell a multitude of handbags, clothes and knicknacks. They engage but don’t hassle you, and were cool with having me photograph them.L1001387

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Don’t get this one mad…..L1001392

The Hmong street children are beyond beautiful and precious. They’re given the responsibility, at incredibly young ages, of taking care of their younger siblings while their mothers work elsewhere in town. It’s a family affair…. What’s interesting is the absence of their fathers around town. I assume they’re out working in the fields or elsewhere while their wives and children ply visitors for income. The youngest ones velcro onto you and follow you down the street wherever you go, holding up tiny trinkets for sale and locking eyes with you, until you succumb or they’ve walked too far from their home base, after which they turn around and go back. It’s so sweet and yet sad at the same time when you realize that they’re working for a living at the tender ages of three to six – before even starting school. There were no mothers anywhere near these little ones – I never saw them look around for their moms or hear a mother call out to them. Wow.

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This little gang blew me awayIMG_1615

Contemplating his toy….while selling trinketsIMG_1623

An observation about Vietnam, with the caveat that I’ve only been in Hanoi and Sa Pa (and the 200 miles between them) so far – people here are on the make. They size you up as a foreigner and try to extract what they can. Very mercantile, and they’re not bashful about doing so. I’m told there’s a dual pricing structure here – one for Vietnamese and the other – often vastly inflated – for foreigners. That doesn’t leave a good taste in your mouth, but there’s not a lot that can be done about it when you look totally western.

Heading out to hike in the fog. Hopefully it’ll clear up a bit.

 

 

 

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