[Yikes – the formatting just went crazy. Haven’t been able to fix it, so this looks pretty darned weird. Humble apologies in advance….]
I’ve been in Japan for five days now, with three more to come, and it is unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been. So calm, so quiet, so efficient, so sleek, so serene, so sophisticated, so smooth, so expensive, so – Japanese….. It’s really quite an amazing place and culture in a myriad of ways.
A word about the Japanese people. Being everywhere I’ve been has been like being in a library. Everything and everyone is super quiet and silent. I haven’t heard a horn honked anywhere. No one makes a peep on the trains (you’re asked to go between cars and talk in small compartments purposely built if you need to use your mobile). The only time I’ve seen people laughing and talking out loud was in the Nagano train station well after 10 pm, clearly following a night of imbibing and carousing with work colleagues. Watching those folks hug each other and laugh while saying goodnight seemed surreal, as though their strict cultural inhibitions, loosened with alcohol (where haven’t we seen that?), temporarily fled everyone. Onlookers seemed completely aware and bemused, perhaps even a little envious that fun was being had.
Timid is likely too strong a word to describe the zeitgeist here, but it feels as though people remember (or have been taught to understand) the horrors their ancestors brought on the country in two World Wars, and the idea of acting aggro again just never crosses their minds. Japan has serious demographic and economic problems, and it seems that folk here are cognizant of them. Their historic xenophobia has meant that others havenever been welcomed, even to do the menial tasks performed by refugees and those from poor countries elsewhere in the world. While arguably good for the purity of Japan’s gene pool, the total absence of diversity is a bit shocking. In addition, the extremely low birth rate here means that the population is not reproducing itself. As a result, the population skews quite old, and their social security system is very much out of balance between those drawing out and those paying in. The economic lines have already started to cross between revenue and expenditures, and no one has yet come up with a solution to keep the country’s retirement system solvent, likely because a tenable one doesn’t really exist.
Loneliness is also a problem here. I’ve heard heart-breaking stories of elderly
Japanese citizens committing petty crimes despite the catastrophic loss of face
and social humiliation involved, solely to be with others and to have meals and a
roof over their heads provided for them. Imagine that for a moment….. how
terribly sad.
Riding the trains here, especially the Shinkansen bullet trains, is like being in a
dream. The system is so flawless in its design and execution that I keep pinching
myself. Things are so dialed in that if you’re five seconds late for your departure,
you’re completely out of luck. My guess is that the Swiss are a little envious….
This could be my favorite Shinkansen design, among the seven or eight I’ve seen so far:
How about a little power to go with your bullet train? Whoa….

I love riding the rails as my method of travel in places where it’s highly valued
and subsidized for the greater good. Money very well spent to me. Hello
Washington…..
I bought a Japan Rail Pass for this trip, which allows unlimited travel throughout the
country, including on the Shinkansen speed demons. A total rush. The Shinkansen trains
have their own ticket office in each station and, of course, their own tracks, and after
showing your pass at the ticket window, you’re told by an incredibly polite Japan Rail
representative of all trains heading to your destination. A ticket is issued with reserved
seating, and you slide it into a turnstile, which scans and returns it to you, then you walk
to your departure track, with all car numbers marked on the ground for ease of entry.
Once on board, you’re not asked for your ticket by the conductors, who simply
smile warmly and greet you as they pass by. Every station and other
announcement is followed in Japanese by English, which is great. When your
journey’s over and you disembark, you just slide your ticket (and show your JR Pass)
through the turnstile on the way out, and you’re on your way. Simple, quick and elegant
in every way. The best things invariably are….
The train cars are completely silent – no one makes a peep. If you need to use
your mobile, there are small compartments adjacent to the restrooms ate the end of the
cars. All doors whisk open and closed automatically as you approach them with nary a
sound.
I’ve never seen cleaner restrooms anywhere, and I’m including German and Swiss
trains. Well done, guys. You rock it.
Three brief observations on Japanese bathrooms everywhere – they are the cleanest I’ve
ever seen anywhere, all of the toilet seats are heated, complete with bidets, and the trash
containers are absolutely the smallest on the planet. This one is considerably
smaller than the TP roll above it. What are you supposed to put in there – a grain
of rice? It’s ironic, because it’s so spotlessly clean everywhere here that you’d think
everyone is constantly throwing out trash. Where do they put it? I’m completely
baffled.
Aha – I finally found trash somewhere:
I laughed for five minutes at the utter precision and placement of the bags, each with a
perfect square knot keeping its contents secured. Wow….
OK, I’m gonna simply show some photos of today in Kyoto now without blabbing too
much about where and when.
Street scene – lunch on the go:
Fushiminan Taisha Shrine. Magical.
Imperial Palace:
Yes – they very much like gates and doors here…..
I left Kyoto late afternoon for Hiroshima, a place and name so laden with unimaginable
power, awe and horror that I couldn’t possibly visit Japan without coming here. On my
arrival, this scene greeted me:
It took me aback.
Walking from the station underground, where I heard and saw young musicians singing
and playing Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer…..
The Welcome sign rocked me, especially as an American. Like being in Vietnam and
contemplating the War there and what our country did to so many innocent civilians, I
kept thinking that America committed the most horrible act in human history, although
arguably fully justified because of Japan’s horrific conduct everywhere it fought and its
attack on America at Pearl Harbor. Justified or not, the result was unspeakable, as we all
know. I’ve read that today, Hiroshima is a vibrant, beautiful, culturally rich and
magnificent place. I hope to confirm that tomorrow..
Thanks for the descriptions and great photos
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Thank you Steve, and thanks so much for following along these past two months.
Rich
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