Australia has always loomed exceptionally large in my consciousness, calling to me again and again over the years. The only island continent – the land down under – The Great Barrier Reef,  Ayers Rock, stunning landscapes, kangaroos, Tasmania, wild and exotic creatures everywhere, cosmopolitan cities, fantastic food and wine, amazingly friendly Aussies, sunshine pretty much all the time, great surf…. and on and on. After thinking about visiting for so long, the time has come to see and experience Australia up close. My journey will be five weeks and 5,000 miles, starting in Cairns, in the northeast Barrier Reef area, and finishing in Perth, on the southwest coast. I’ll be traveling by camper van, my preferred method for extended road tripping. The camper I’ll be driving looks pretty swank, with bunks up and down and all the comforts. Like with Burning Girl on my Alaskan and Pacific NW sojourn, having my house on my back, so to speak, will be a very cool way to get around. No need to worry about hotels, reservations, check-in and out times and other such hassles or even whether there’ll be somewhere to stay at the end of a day’s exploring. Just befriend the locals and ask for a great spot to camp wherever I am, and find spectacular places down the road or around the bend. The ocean coast will be my general path, although I’ll head inland whenever the feeling moves me. There’s so much to see and do on the coast that taking this route, through Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide (although my focus will be more on the wilds and small towns than the cities), should provide plenty of adventure and scenery. My son Matt, who just finished grad school, will be joining me for eight days between Brisbane and Melbourne. When I told him of my plans, he was so excited that I had to invite him to come along. Julie is off to other adventures this summer, Mark has visited Australia while studying in New Zealand and Scott is busy with school and work this summer, so only one of my brood will be tagging along. Here are a couple of images in advance of touching down and starting the trip (not my photos, of course). They provide a small taste of what’s to come, and the adventures that await. My sights and experiences between Cairns and Perth will be the subject of my rambling as things unfold. Enjoy the ride – I hope to convey a true sense of what I see and learn on my journey through my photos and narrative. If you’d like to stay abreast of the trip, just click the “Follow” icon in the bottom right corner.  Also, starting with my next post, all photos will expand when clicked on. Part of the joy of this kind of trip is not knowing exactly what lies ahead. Spontaneity rocks, and the unexpected usually provides the greatest surprises and most fun, as with life in general. My next post will be from down under… Rich    

Landed in Sydney on Wednesday and decided, because of a  long layover to Cairns, to explore the city and bay a bit. What a fantastic place – incredibly clean, beautiful and cosmopolitan. The architecture is a very interesting blend of classical mixed with bold and new. The weather could’t have been better – 50 degrees F at 7:30 am, warming up to 65F by noon. Aussies are astonishingly attractive and friendly. You feel as though you’ve known everyone you speak with for years. Great folks. A bit puzzled by this store’s name: After wandering a bit through the financial district and grabbing breakfast, I headed over to the ferry terminal to see the inner harbor by boat. Everyone said it’s a must to get the lay of the land. This classic I spied en route was towing a mint Airstream – funny to see them juxtaposed downtown in a major urban area. I immediately thought of Ward. Here’s the Sydney Opera House as we slid by, shimmering in early morning light: I then rode the ferry to Manley, a bedroom community and tourist haven (great combo) 25 minutes by boat from the inner harbor, due east of downtown. Manley is unique because it fronts Sydney Harbor on its west side and the Pacific Ocean on its east. Both are separated by only a quarter mile stretch of land with charming restaurants, shops and taverns scattered about. I met the most delightful couple in their eighties while sitting on a bench at the beach in Manley – both are German, having come to Australia by themselves fifty some-odd years ago, after which they made their separate ways then met and fell in love decades ago. How delightful they were to talk to and meet. I’m always so heartened to see enduring and true love. After flying from Sydney to Cairns, I picked up my camper van and made my way to Palm Cove and Trinity Beach yesterday. Both are 20 – 30 miles north of Cairns and are well-known as escapes / havens for Cairns residents. They are each incredibly beautiful, small towns with no buildings higher than the tallest palm trees. What a great idea. The views looking out on the ocean from Palm Cove and Trinity Beach are sublime. Both towns reminded me of Kauai in terms of their ocean views and majestic, verdant mountains spilling down to the sea when you turn around. Just a great day and time. I’m off to Whitsunday, its islands and the Great Barrier Reef today. Really looking forward to it. I’ll post again after my visit there.

Wow. The Whitsunday Islands are beyond amazing. Located off the coast of Airlie Beach, a sleepy coastal town that’s growing up pretty quickly, the islands are comprised of 74 protected small to quite large outcroppings, all of which were connected to the mainland during the last ice age. Captain James Cook named them when, in June of 1770, he first spied them on Whit Sunday, a religious holiday in the UK following Easter. Captain Cook went everywhere, literally, in the world. A brave man and crew, no doubt incentivized by the riches and surprises awaiting them in places near and far. Our departure point for the Whitsundays at Airlie Beach’s port: Whitsunday Island, the archipelago’s namesake, was my destination yesterday. The entire island is a national park, forever wild and protected. Whitehaven Beach, seven incredible kilometers in length along on its east coast, is reported to have the purest white sand in the world, rumored at 99.8% silica. Its texture is so powdery fine that it remains completely cool underfoot, even on blazingly hot days, because its stark white color reflects so much light and heat and because there are virtually no spaces between its fine grains to trap hot air and burn your feet. Net result – a delight to walk on all day. We snorkeled all morning along a completely deserted beach among the Great Barrier Reef’s coral and fish. Fortunately, the Reef is doing well here compared to some other areas affected by warming sea temperatures. The colors were startling. Swimming among the teeming marine life and vivid colors made for a great experience. A surprise – me in front of the lens, at my sister Lisa’s urging. Total chill zone, with our boat anchored just off the beach before a great hike and lunch. The boats we rode in for 60 nautical miles during the day’s excursion ripped along at 50 mph, accelerating super fast and maneuvering crazy well. They’re 38′ rigid pontoons with twin 250 outboards at $500K a copy. Whoa – nice toys. Life is often incredibly serendipitous. The photo I chose as the banner image on my blog’s home page, having no idea exactly where it was in Australia, was where we ended up yesterday – Hill Inlet on Whitsunday Island. Here’s one of my images of it, with a 35′ or so sailboat riding the tide in for scale. Amazing coincidence, considering that I wasn’t even looking for it. Our guides said that it’s the third most photographed site in Australia. Time to find the other two now… One of our guides insisted on taking my photograph overlooking Hill Inlet. Being there and on Whitsunday Island was truly sublime. I really didn’t want to leave late in the day, but duty (cold beers and live music overlooking the port in Aerlie Beach) called.   Back in port after a rollicking return voyage around and through the Whitsundays. The kids running the tour and our three boats – and they were in their early 20’s – were really adept at going super fast, pulling wicked turns very close to each other at warp speed and in general having a complete blast. A perfect ending to a great day. A couple of early and very preliminary observations on Australia so far – this place is frickin’ big. Really big. I’ve traveled 800 km during the past four days, through impossibly green mountains, blue seas and white beaches, and barely scratched its surface. Spectacular landscapes just keep coming right at you, in rapid succession, with a wonderful tendency to overwhelm your senses. Fine with me – bring it all on. Also, the people here are just fantastic. Everyone I’ve met, and I’ve met loads of folks, couldn’t be friendlier or more accommodating. People really enjoy every minute of each day here. Overall, a great start to the trip. Off for some great hiking and beaches near Mackay, today’s destination.

Yesterday was a reset day – I took time to restock the camper with food and bevies, relax, organize a bit and kick around the many places and sites I’d like to see while meandering from Cairns to Perth. My camper has been great. Very roomy and comfortable, with a full kitchen, bunks up and down (for some reason, I sleep better than anywhere else in camper vans on road trips), space to walk around in and a surprisingly good stereo when connected to my iPod and iPhone. So good to have my music on the road. Here she is: I did a bit of caving in the afternoon directly on the Tropic of Capricorn at, oddly enough, Capricorn Caves. Neat place with a fascinating native Australian history. Like many awesome natural sites around the  world, it was held by the ancients to be deeply spiritual and directly connected to the maker. Nowadays, many folks get married deep below the surface in its cathedral (go figure). Just before heading down: Some of the spaces were extremely tight – I had to crouch down and shuffle sideways to get through one particularly narrow and winding passage. All in all, quite interesting. After leaving the caves, I happened on this bus, which really grabbed me. Reminded me in a sense of Chris McCandles’ bus in Healy, Alaska, which I shot while on my trip there. It seemed to call out to me, letting me know that it was happy to be aging gracefully through the years and more than content in its current state. A lesson on life, I suspect… I hung out for  a while before moving on, admiring its beauty and classic patina. After a while, I felt as though it was speaking to me. What a communicative face. Later in the afternoon I rolled into  Yeppoon, a charming small town on the way to Agnes Water, Seventeen Seventy / 1770 (yes, that’s the place’s name) and Brisbane, where I’ll meet Matt this week. This morning I arrived in  Agnes Water, way off the beaten path, and its neighbor 1770. Agnes Water is a tiny and remote outpost encircled by national parkland and the Pacifc Ocean, pretty much off the grid. It’s super chilled and cool – a perfect place to spend time and unwind. Another 7 kilometer beach made for a great hike at low tide this morning. I walked to land’s end in this photo. There’s something about the beaches here – in addition to being stunningly beautiful and plentiful, they’re just enormous in terms of how big and long they are. Australia is the land of sand and sea. The view from a great little restaurant at a campground I visited in 1770, with really nice cabins on the beach (yes, I was tempted…): 1770 is said to make Agnes Water feel like a metropolis. That’s pretty funny. Spending the afternoon in The Town of 1770 (its official name, bestowed by Captain Cook once again) was so relaxing that the next step would be a coma. The landscape here is vast, making you feel very small and insignificant. Really powerful. Checked my pulse after a bit and it was 12. Even with school holidays this week, everyone here is so relaxed that it’s uncanny. Those Aussies… gotta love ’em. Side note – I’m experiencing a couple of technical glitches with the site at the moment – comments aren’t posting, although I’m receiving them (thanks, everyone) and photos aren’t enlarging when clicked on. Research hasn’t helped, but I’ll figure these gremlins out.

Yesterday was a day to remember. I had lunch the day before near Rockingham (called simply “Rocky” by Aussies) and chatted up the owner, who told me that she’d been all over Australia and if there was one place she absolutely considered her favorite and a do-not-miss destination, it was Fraser Island, conveniently located on the way to Brisbane. I decide to head there and research it a bit en route. Turns out that Fraser Island is pretty young geologically – 800,000 years or so – and its sand has been a gift from Antarctica over that time, with winds, tides and ocean currents moving and creating it gradually. Fraser Island is the largest island composed entirely of sand in the world – approximately 70 miles long by 10-15 miles in width. From Wikipedia – The island has rainforests, eucalyptus woodland, mangrove forests, wallum and peat swamps, sand dunes and coastal heaths. It’s made up of sand that has been accumulating for approximately 750,000 years on volcanic bedrock that provides a natural catchment for the sediment which is carried on a strong offshore current northwards along the coast. Unlike on many sand dunes, plant life is abundant due to the naturally occurring mycorrhizal fungi present in the sand, which release nutrients in a form that can be absorbed by the plants. The island’s sub-tropical rainforest was incredible. It sits in a low-lying pocket in the center of the island that catches huge amounts of rainfall after the tall eastern facing dunes lift it up then drop it from incoming storms. Rainforest trees that hadn’t been logged measured 10-12′  in diameter at the base (larger stumps from logged trees were also scattered about). Areas that had been replanted after logging only fifty years ago (fortunately, logging was fairly limited on Fraser Island) had trees that measured almost three feet across at their base which were 150′ tall. Amazing. It’s an absolute natural wonder and a Unesco World Heritage Site (one of many in Australia), and is reachable only by 4WD because its roads, hacked out by hand during its timber days last century, are primitive and comprised entirely of really soft sand that you pretty much have to rip through or get bogged down and towed out of. Queued up for the ferry. No need for a pre-ride wash: We were really fortunate to have Butch as our driver (frickin’ nuts behind the wheel) and natural guide for the day. Here’s a shot of one of the the sand “roads” crossing the island, just wide enough for one vehicle (and barely so for a large one like ours that seated 25). Entry to 75 Mile Beach, which serves as the island’s main N-S roadway and landing site on its eastern shore. Butch ripping it up on 75 Mile Beach, after scaring the daylights out of us in the rain forest, with trees whizzing by a foot from both sides of the bus at 40 mph: The SS Maheno wreck on 75 Mile Beach. The Maheno was a New Zealand ocean liner built in 1905, enormous for its day at 400 feet, converted to a hospital ship during WW I. It ran aground on Fraser Island in a cyclone that struck in 1935 and remains locked in place, five of its decks below the beach, slowly giving itself up to the sea and elements. Pretty stunning to see and get close to. We stopped at Lake McKenzie, a spring-fed jewel 300′ above sea level, in the center of the island, for a hike and tea. Gorgeous place, with the whitest sand imaginable. It’s said that there’s no finer exfoliant in the world. Buzzing by the landing strip (small cones let you know where you’d better not drive) at mach speed on 75 Mile Beach: Butchie expounding on the island’s natural wonders. His knowledge was absolutely encyclopedic and his enthusiasm completely contagious. We just made the last ferry of the day off island, as someone in a 4 x 4 in front of us broke down (fuel pump, they said) and a circus of towing, moving vehicles and backing up long ways with nowhere to go ensued to right things. You could tell they’d seen it before. All in all, a really fun and rewarding day. So glad I visited. I’m finding, as I have on so many other road trips, that talking to the locals about great places to see is really the best way to go. Off to Rainbow Beach for another day of chillin’ and adventure.

In case one had difficulty figuring it out with the stunning natural light, beauty, amazing weather and gorgeous sunshine completely surrounding you, the area I’m traveling through now is known as the Sunshine Coast. Quite superlative in so many ways. I’ve found that the towns here range from unpretentious and hippie friendly to super swank and sophisticated. The common denominator in all of them, however, is the beach, ocean, surfing – everybody surfs here – and democracy on the sand. Everyone is just completely chilled and happy here. The food is great as well – seafood everywhere – and coffee fuels Aussies. Rainbow Beach yesterday, mid-morning: This is the second week of winter school holiday, so families are everywhere with their broods. No worries – kids are so well-behaved that they should bottle the recipe and sell it, especially in the States. Here’s another shot of Rainbow Beach, my stopover the past two days. There’s a great combination around here of super lush vegetation running right up to sparking sand and the ocean. I’m reminded again and again of Hawaii. Ah, the ocean and sand…. An  intoxicating combination, indeed. Later in the day. This looked like a lot of fun. Next time I’m in town I’ll be sure to saddle up. This bloke was contemplating the morning today in Noosa Heads. Is there such a thing as zero stress level? You betcha, mate. Noosa Heads is very special. It feels like kind of a cross between Palm Beach and Southampton, but of course different. Very elegant, but completely unpretentious at the same time. Absolutely stunning looking folks here, all of whom couldn’t be nicer or friendlier. Sunrise this morning at my campsite. Time for a shower and shave. Ah, life on the road… Always unanticipated delights and surprises. Hope I’m not boring anyone with photos of the beach and water lately. It’s just that this is pretty much what I’ve been eating, drinking and sleeping the past nine days. Not complaining, mind you – it has been absolutely fantastic in every way. I’ll be in Brisbane the day after tomorrow to pick up Matt, so the scenery and vibe will change and I’ll be able to do some street photography, which I love. Till then, have a good one.          

Haven’t written for four days, but I’ve been busy and having lots of fun. Rambling on the coast in Marcoola: I left Noosa Heads on Friday headed for Brisbane to pick up Matt. Great to see him, as always, after his long journey from New Orleans, and we were off to the mountains and beach in short order. Matt is a terrific navigator, always finding neat and out of the way places. Our first stop was Lamington National Park, about 30 km inland from Brisbanne. What a cool place. A sub-tropical rain forest with a sky walk that’s over a hundred feet above the rainforest floor and a neat lodge, run by the Reilly family for over seventy years. We hiked for three and a half hours among huge waterfalls, enormous old growth trees and total calm and serenity. A really great afternoon, after which we watched the sun set while having dinner and beers. One thing that I’m still getting used to is that it’s winter here. The climate is fantastic – mid 40’s at night and 70’s during the day – just perfect. The days, however, are the shortest of the year, so it’s dark at 5:30. Big change from the northern hemisphere, where the days lasted forever in June and July. Oh, well… After Lamington NP, we meandered to two towns on the coast that have a vibe like no other I’ve seen – Burleigh Heads and then Byron Bay. Both these places exude surfer cool through every pore. Everyone, and I mean everyone, is surfing or watching the waves and surfers tearing it up. Surfing really is the center of everything in this part of Australia, and people are so happy and friendly that you know it’s one of the secrets of life.  Byron Bay also has a hippie coolness, with lots of youngsters out and about in dreadlocks, tie-dye shirts and groovin’ around. We hiked out to the eastern most point of the Australian continent in Byron Bay, watching humpback whales on their journey to Australia’s warm northern waters to give birth and nurse before heading back to their Antarctic homes in October. They are a blast to watch. Yesterday found us at Coffs Harbor in the morning. We pulled over at 6:30 am, before even having coffee, to watch the sun pour through the eastern sky, only to spy twenty or more surfers in the early morning waves, happy as clams, with more in the parking lot en route to the swells. Surfing really is a birthright here, and I was reminded of powder clause days out west – get your rides in early, then off to work, mate. Overcast skies, but a neat place to hike out and look for whales. After Coffs Harbor, we drove up into the mountains to Dorrigo National Park, a jewel in the New South Wales and National Park systems. Although relatively small, Dorrigo has stupendously large trees and views. The climb was over 3,000’ and the cooler climate was a delight after warmer temps down lower. After dinner in the throwback town of Bellingen, we headed back down to sea level and Port Macquarie. Shots taken this morning while out and about after breakfast. Decided to try my hand at scooter boarding in the bowls. Not. Lots of photos and great travels. Off to Sydney for some exploring tomorrow. Should be fun to return after last week’s brief stop.    

Last night and today found us back in Sydney, Matt for the first time. Great weather again, which makes checking out the sights so nice. We took the ferry out to Manly so I could show Matt around there and the harbor. After Manly, we headed to iconic Bondi Beach to check things out. Sydney is loaded with gorgeous beaches and adjacent parks pretty much everywhere. So many neighborhoods have their own beach. Crazy cool. Bondi is where it all began, and is beautifully set and protected. Bondi Beach in its glory: We hiked the Bondi to Coogie trail – about 6 km along the water, with a thousand different views. Really picturesque. How would you like to live here, with a fifteen minute commute to downtown Sydney? Very valuable waterfront real estate: Returning to Bondi late afternoon: Had a fender bender with the camper the other day, which left it undriveable (we were struck in the left real wheel and it and the suspension were damaged). Our rental company hasn’t been able to find us another camper, as the past three weeks have been school vacation and all their campers are out on the road, so we grabbed a regular car for the time being. They hope to get us back into a camper, but the logistics of having another vehicle we picked up in Sydney to return there and snatching a camper elsewhere, as we make our way south towards Melbourne, make it unlikely. The silver lining is that I may visit  Ayers Rock, which I was originally going to miss en route overland to Perth. An Aussie from Melbourne told me on Fraser Island that he’d gone last year for the first time and was absolutely blown away. His description reminded me of the Grand Canyon – you can see a thousand photos of it, but until you’re there, standing on the rim taking it all in, you’ve no idea what it’s all about. I’m checking that option out, but it should work. Oh, well… Life on the road – always an adventure.

Yesterday was spent poking around and hiking the Sapphire Coast, an area  of incredibly rugged and gorgeous coastline. We started the day in Batemans Bay, approximately 150 miles south of Sydney, where we’d driven the night before. What’s so fantastic about Australia is that the beauty is everywhere, and they haven’t spoiled it. In every town, the nicest natural areas are open for the public’s enjoyment and are beautifully maintained. It’s as though everyone is invited to share in what’s so special and revel in it so that things can be kept that way forever. What a great plan. I’ll let the photos do the talking: No Koala Bears on this hike (and we searched the Eucalyptus trees quite a bit, where they live and eat the leaves, which get them high – tough life), but pretty great scenery: Matt just before getting attacked by giant man-eating ants: Dusk walk in Mallacoota before dinner: Look what we found. Kangaroos walk and run so strangely that it’s hard to believe they made it in terms of evolution. They’re pretty shy, but allowed us to get within forty or so feet. We didn’t want to push our luck, as we’ve heard that they can rear back on their tails and kick you across the street if necessary to defend themselves. A great day. Tomorrow we’re heading towards Melbourne on the Victoria coast. This is my third Australian state so far after Queensland and New South Wales. What a great place. Hope to catch an Australian Rules football game tomorrow night. Supposed to be legal murder on pretty grass…  

We spent today traveling the coast in search of local creatures. First stop – Raymond Island, where hundreds of Koala bears live in the wild. Seeing them is really neat – they watch you intently, but don’t move very much. Guess they’re too high on the Eucalyptus leaves… This guy was catching rays about thirty feet off the deck. Watch your speed, mate. Looking out from Raymond Island to 90 Mile Island, an enormous barrier reef. Atop Mount Oberon in Wilsons Promontory, a huge and visually stunning park and preserve about a hundred miles southeast of Melbourne. We got skunked a bit with the weather on our climb, but all in all, it was a really nice afternoon and hike, with water all around us and wild, rugged lands extending to infinity. Sun breaking through clouds after our descent. Too late to go back up and summit again… The beach on the way back towards the coastal road. A wombat grazing late afternoon in Wilsons Promontory. Very chilled – he did’t care that we walked right up to him. Don’t think he could run away too fast anyway. Overall, a really nice day. Seeing animals in the wild that you’ve only seen in photographs is pretty special. Off to Sorrento tonight (English settlers must have been reminded of the Amalfi Coast when they landed there), then Melbourne tomorrow.

After waking up and poking around Sorrento, a gorgeous town that sits at the mouth of Melbourne Harbor straddling the Pacific Ocean, yesterday was spent kicking around Melbourne, a very unique place. First, the obligatory beach shot before departing Sorrento. Three or four surfers were already out testing the early morning swell. Matt, while contemplating the day’s coming attractions: Melbourne is large, with a population of 4 million, and a reputation in Australian Rules Football (more on that later) to match. It’s quite spread out, and the shoreline approaching from the southeast reminded me of the Marina District in San Francisco. The entire shoreline of Melbourne Harbor is parkland – mile after mile of unbroken coast, sand and trees. Just incredible – no businesses, homes, restaurants or other buildings on the water – only nature, with everyone invited to partake. These guys really know how to live and understand what’s important. As yesterday was Saturday, Matt suggested hitting Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market. Really fun to do some street photography, which I love. What a place – everything imaginable is for sale there, and we wandered over to the food court, where we found the best oysters we’d ever tasted, followed by great “take away” food to enjoy in the perfect weather outside. Hmmm… American cultural imperialism at its best. We stayed away, but thanks for the offer, guys. Melbourne’s commercial architecture is like none I’ve seen in other U.S. or foreign cities. Pretty bizarre overall, as though the local architects were eating the Koalas’ Eucalyptus leaves before hitting their drafting tables. The juxtaposition of old and new is fascinating. Typical streetscape in an upscale neighborhood we passed through: Inside and outside Melbourne’s Museum: Shopping scene in Chinatown: These folks must have been playing Pokeman Go. They had no idea that the real world beckoned them with great fun just steps from their screens. This gent was the first homeless person I’ve seen in Australia, and I’ve covered a lot of ground. He seemed very happy, singing and laughing to himself. Pass the Eucalyptus leaves…. Another great idea from Matt – “Let’s see an Australian Rules Football match.” This is Australia’s national sport – a religion in every way. What a total blast. If you like U.S. football, soccer, hockey and lacrosse, you’ll absolutely love this game. Ten times as fast and fluid as NFL football, with tons of scoring (the final score was 105-77, with non-stop rock ’em, sock ’em action throughout). The field is just enormous, and the players don’t stop running for a moment during the game. The fans were fantastic and super friendly, explaining the game and its nuances to us. Many beers later, we were total converts. We hope to pick up some games back home on one of ESPN’s multitude of channels. Before we wandered over to the game, we came upon two places – a bar and a condo complex around the corner from each other – with instantly recognizable names. Wonder if someone was playing a sly joke… (Sorry – had a hard time with these photos. Couldn’t e-mail them from my phone to my notebook.)  Then we were off to dinner for some Asian cuisine, Matt’s request on his last night down under.

I said goodbye to Matt early this morning, as he needed to get back to the Big Easy for work. What a terrific time we had together. Couldn’t have been better or more fun. His visit was perfectly timed, after my first two weeks and before weeks four and five. Thanks, Matt. You are the perfect travel companion. The Great Ocean Road, a 150 mile stretch of Victoria’s coastline in Australia’s south, is mind-bendingly beautiful. A stunning drive that rivals Big Sur but is of course different, it winds through and over cliffs, dunes, forests and small towns that dot its path. It overwhelms and overloads one’s senses after a while, but in really good ways. Torquay is the starting point when driving west. Surf shops, endless rolling waves and smiling Sunday morning surfers were everywhere. Catching rides on a stand up paddle board – pretty cool. Just south of Torquay: The Twelve Apostles, rock formations named after you know who, in Port Campbell National Park. Rather iconic, although the weather wasn’t ideal for photographing them today. Cliff formations in Port Campbell NP. These were absolutely magnificent. A really fun day with lots of coastal driving. Heading towards Adelaide and then Ayers Rock and possibly Darwin. I’ll be figuring out logistics in the next several days. There’s so much to see here that it’s a bit overwhelming. Everywhere I’ve been has been mesmerizing. I’ve never been anywhere before where it’s all stupendous, but Australia fits that bill. Just magnificent in every way, including the people, food and culture.

Stay with me for a moment here. The past three days have been crazy good, and I’m going to share them in short order. I’m gonna go out of order, however, and cover Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (the home of Ayers Rock) first, then write about Adelaide, which I visited earlier in the week and which is the most beautiful city I’ve seen on my trip to date. The reason’s simple – I can’t keep Uluru and my incredible experience there inside of me. It was that cool, so here goes. Kata Tjuta. These formations look like a giant had some fun with a lot of Play-Doh: Walking around Uluru, a 6 mile hike: Uluru Sunset (pre-light show): Great surprise – a full moonrise over Uluru as dusk enveloped it. This was the icing on the cake, as we didn’t think it could get any better than what we’d just seen. Uluru Sunrise: Climbing Uluru: From on top: Kata Tjuta in the distance: Lunch stop. A camel expedition place. Yes, they do that in the outback. Hopefully his friends weren’t in my sandwich. The trip came together the past two days in many ways. Uluru is beyond amazing. I was floored. Its size, magnificence, structure and colors absolutely stagger and blow you away. It’s mind bending. It felt so good to feel really small there. Kata Tjuta is similarly awe-inspiring to see and touch. There are days and times on big trips that transcend exactly where you are physically and what you’ve done and seen up to that point. Yesterday and today were those days, spiritual and elastic in terms of time and place. Time slowed down and felt like a piece of taffy – stretchable and yielding in my hands. A cosmic sense flowed all day both days, hiking in and around Uluru and Kata Tjuta. I circled, them, climbed them and photographed them during the days’ excursions and at day’s end and start. I felt as though I got to know both a bit in my time there. These past two days rank up there with the best days and experiences I’ve ever had. Wow. Mesmerizing in so many ways. The groove has been so clear and overwhelmingly powerful. Listening to Santana / Europa in the car en route to Alice Springs and Darwin today, at full blast several times (well, more than a couple), was the perfect music for my state of mind. Totally sublime. You can’t help but come away from Uluru and Kata Tjuta changed. They’re that powerful and moving. Rocks are simple and basic things, but in nature’s hands they can become absolutely majestic and mystical. This place is like the Grand Canyon in terms of how it affects you, but different and unique in its own ways. It’s so clear why the indigenous Anangu people held both sites so sacred and in such awe. They got it, for sure. When you come to Australia, you must visit Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. It’s that cool.    

Adelaide is refreshingly different, and mellower, than Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Sitting on Australia’s south coast on St. Vincent Gulf, its architecture and materials beckon. Much like European cities with stone structures everywhere, Adelaide looks and feels very solid and enduring. You know it’s been around a long time and will be around way down the road. Open space abounds and new structures fit in really well with Adelaide’s existing and past buildings. It’s a great combination aesthetically. Winter Carnival: Just passing’ through… There are quite a few camels in Australia. Didn’t know that, but it makes complete sense with its vast interior and bush lands. Adelaide’s Cricket stadium. Seriously. Open spaces are really beautiful, with the low skyline adding to Adelaide’s feeling of sky and water. Protesting veterans’ cuts. Why is this such a common theme around the world? If this fellow doesn’t deserve a break, who does? Neat truck – a Holden – GM’s marque in Australia. Local flora and fauna. Whimsy in a hotel’s entrance. Miner’s bar smack in the middle of downtown. Cool. Tired, hmmmm….. nah. Not looking good for this lonely chap. Probably been here for days… Hadn’t he heard that the house always wins? Old and new architecture coexist beautifully. After three weeks of spectacular coastline, water, waves and sand, it’s time to push into Australia’s interior – the bush – as it’s affectionately referred to. What a great and simple name. This is where it’s at for many Aussies and explorers. Northward, ho…  

A brief update post from Darwin – the End (of the continent): Darwin is an impossibly seductive tropical town (Australia’s only) overlooking the Indonesian archipelago. Bali is a stone’s throw from here, and I might hop over for a look if time permits. Darwin’s fantastic – primeval and frontier-like, with  a super cool vibe. You can tell and feel that some people are here because it’s as far away from everyone and everything else as you can possibly get in Australia. Like Alaska in that way. It’s absolutely great to be here for a couple of days. I’ve made some really nice friends, and was shown the town last night by some wonderful locals. I’m staying in a great hotel with all the amenities I haven’t had for three weeks, and suddenly I feel totally spoiled. John Snodgrass made a brilliant suggestion today that I’ve pondered on these trips – a map showing where I’ve been (where I’m going is another story). I told Snoddy that it was a great idea, that I’d contemplated doing it for some time, but hadn’t gotten around to it. No more excuses. Here’s where I’ve been so far: Approximately 6,000 miles in three and a half weeks. Good thing I love to drive…. In trying to get a handle on the Australian landmass before my trip, I came upon a website that superimposed Australia on a map of the lower 48. Fascinating – both countries are very similar in size and dimensions. That gave me a quick reference, as I’ve been all over the States and know the distances between different places pretty well. Here’s that map: Fascinating similarity. Notwithstanding this, Australia is frickin’ big. Really big. In addition, the roads are small (virtually all of them, until you get within 30 miles or so of a city, are two lane and quite twisty), so you can’t cover big distances quickly, like you can in the States. There’s no equivalent of our interstate highway system, which has surprised me. In addition, semis pull three and four full truck loads behind them – no josh – they have big signs on the last ones that say “Road Train.” Passing them at 140 KPH (nighttime is even more fun) gets your adrenaline pumping, especially while driving on the left side of the road. I’ve been on the road for over three weeks now, and haven’t even circled half of the country. Waaaah. I’ve thought about staying another two months, but I’m sure that I’d turn into a surf bum and never come back. I will have to return here, however, as quite a few folks have told me that the northwest and far western parts of the country are its most beautiful and provocative. Man, everywhere is like that here. I’ll be happy to confirm it, however. I’ll post about the charms and pleasures of Darwin and my trip from Uluru up here next. A couple of photos from last night and today. I was lucky enough to arrive on Thursday afternoon, when the local food market vendors all get together on Mindil Beach for sunset dinners, entertainment and group fun and camaraderie on the water. It reminded me of Off the Grid in San Francisco, which I can’t wait to get back to once I’m stateside. Surf pool. I’m definitely headed there tomorrow. Cowabunga…

The push from Uluru to Darwin was pretty big – 1,218 miles through the Northern Territory. I decided to split it into two days, stopping in Tennant Creek, pretty much in the middle of nowhere but halfway to Darwin on the Stuart Highway, which connects Darwin with Adelaide, 1,900 miles to the south. Because of Tennant Creek’s really small size and population (almost all natives), accommodation choices were very limited. The place I stayed in reminded me of a prison cell (not that I’ve spent a night in one, mind you), and I was more than happy to shove off the next morning for Darwin. Giant Cathedral Termite mounds on the Stuart Highway. I thought these were rock formations at first – they get up to 15 feet tall. crazy. These were 3′ – 4′ in height. Wouldn’t want to mess with those ‘mites, mate. Of course I had to stop at the Pink Panther Pub and Roadhouse in Daly Waters for gas (“Sorry, mate – our petrol station burned down twelve years ago”) and provisions. I’ve learned on this trip (and in Alaska) that when you live hundreds of miles from the nearest settlement and people, you can become rather whimsical. It’s a common theme in the outback. I think it helps take your mind off the isolation and sameness each day. Having said that, the folks that live and work in these tiny hamlets couldn’t be more friendly, outgoing or helpful. They are just fantastic people. Local whimsy. Dennis, a/k/a Chevy because of all the American cars he’s owned, is the proprietor of the PPP. I ordered a meat pie (one of the staples on the road here, which are actually quite good everywhere), and he gave me one, insisting that it was on the house. He said it had been in the oven keeping warm for a couple of hours and there was no charge What a swell guy. He wouldn’t let me pay him or buy anything (it was too early for a beer). We talked for a bit about American muscle cars – his knowledge was really impressive – after which it was time to say goodbye. A real charmer, that Chevy. ‘Nuf said. Thursday night in Darwin. A native, after a bit too much imbibing on her bike. I think the charge was wobbly riding. Mindil Beach sunset gathering. Reminded me of church. Indigenous ladies enjoying the market. Filed under the category Dumb, or at least wanting in personal safety. This mate was swimming with a 20 foot long, 80 year old giant salt water croc. Both his front feet had been bitten off in attacks long ago, so I guess he wasn’t too dangerous. Not. I was amazed that he could survive those attacks, but a ranger told me that they can slow their heart rate, and blood loss, down dramatically to avoiding bleeding to death after battle. Likely just one of the reasons they’ve been around for 200 million years… Peering out at Darwin’s harbor. I didn’t know that Darwin was bombed by the Japanese in WW II – by the same crew and only two months after Pearl Harbor was attacked. Darwin became very fortified shortly afterwards as the bulwark against a Japanese invasion of Australia, a very serious threat at the time until the U.S. took the fight to the Japs and prevented a full-on Australian invasion. A number of American sailors and soldiers also lost their lives in the attack, some going down in their harbored ships. Darwin’s underground oil storage tanks (chiseled by hand into cliff rock), constructed shortly after the Japanese bombings. Stokes Hill Wharf, with a bunch of great ethnic restaurants overlooking the Beagle Gulf and Timor Sea. The Asian food proximity and influence here are just fantastic. Sunset and cocktails with Aussie friends last night. This is my third day in Darwin, and I feel sad leaving. It’s such a cool place, and the weather up north (remember, it’s winter in Australia and it was kind of cool way down south in Adelaide and its environs) is amazing – 88F today. I’m off to Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks, after which I’ll meander through New South Wales and Queensland towards the Blue Mountains (Australia’s ski country – I may have to carve some turns) en route to Sydney. In Sydney, I’ll trade my wheels for wings, heading to Perth, Fremantle and the west coast for a bit before heading back to the States. Caiao for now.        

Thought I’d change things up a bit with today’s reflections for a couple of reasons. First, today marked four weeks since I arrived in the Land Down Under, which is hard to believe. It has gone both delightfully slowly and really fast at the same time, depending on the time of day or night and the location I happen to be in when I reflect on things. Second, I’ve seen a lot of blacktop the past two days, traveling from Darwin, up on the edge of the Northern Territory, to Barcaldine in Queensland, en route to Sydney – 1,463 miles so far on this leg, to be precise, according to Googlemaps, where I’m staying tonight before mushing on to the coast. As a result of my own personal Race Across Australia (only a part of it, to be sure) the past several days, I haven’t taken many photos of the outback. Rest assured that it’s really big and really vast, and this winter – the dry season in Australia – is very special because a lot of rain fell in the fall and the outback is a thousand beautiful shades of green. This is almost never seen here – kind of like the desert flower blooms in Death Valley. Reminds me of Marin in April after the winter rains. As a result, I’m gonna look back a bit with some photos of the trip so far. This trip has astounded me every day in countless ways, and I’m so thrilled that I decided to do it. As I mentioned in my first post, Australia has been high up on my “places to go” list forever, but I wanted to wait until I had enough time to do it justice. Although five weeks is a fairly good stretch of time, I could easily stay for another three to six months. Hell, I could easily live here. It’s that good. The landscape, the scenery and the people have blown me away. All have wildly exceeded my pretty high expectations. I’m so grateful for  that. A couple of observations on my visit so far – I’ve seen almost no police, in the cities or out in the country. I haven’t seen one hunter or gun, which has really surprised me because in the States, once you get out west (and in hunting season pretty much everywhere), rifles in gun racks are de rigueur in virtually every pickup truck you see. By the way, crimes rates and those involving firearms are a tiny fraction here of what they are in the States. Food for thought… Aussies are such happy and mellow people. They love to chat and hang out and love to tell you fantastic places to visit. I’ve also talked politics, as I’ve been here during the election for prime minister (which Malcolm Turnbull , the incumbent, won in a real squeaker), and have found no polemics or vitriol at all in my conversations, which is so rampant these days in the States. I’ve always believed that you can disagree without being disagreeable, and the folks here are totally that way. I also had an interesting introduction to Australian criminal law at 9 am the other day en route from Uluru to Darwin. I was flagged down and stopped while driving slowly through Larimmah, a tiny place in the Northern Territory, by an indigenous police officer. When I came to a stop and rolled down my window to greet him (he looked very serious), he stuck a breathalyzer in my face without saying a word. Taken aback, I asked what was going on. He told me (and I don’t think race had anything to do with him stopping me) that I had no choice but to take the test. When I laughed and asked if he wouldn’t do better business at night, he said “Oh no, mate – there are roadhouses north and south of here, and folks drink all night then get in their cars and drive all day,” I got it. I didn’t put up any resistance, and was quickly on my way. That just wouldn’t happen in the States without the police officer interviewing you first and having a legitimate suspicion that you’d been drinking. Vive La difference. Here are some shots from the past two days, when I didn’t have the pedal to the metal. Litchfield National Park. This Cathedral Termite mound was over fifteen feet tall. Crazy. Imagine being tied down by the natives and eaten by these beasts. Oh, never mind…. The natives dress up Cathedral Termite mounds, which I couldn’t figure out at first, as folk art. It’s very cool to see all of the different ways they humanize mounds of earth. Cooling off at Buley Rockhole in Litchfield NP. Bush fires in Litchfield NP. Unlike in the States, fire is a natural part of the forest here. Fires are set in controlled ways by natives for many reasons, including hunting and agriculture, and natural fires are not suppressed. As a result, forests here are very healthy and bush fires are typically small and don’t burn out of control. Dusk in Kakadu National Park. My casa in Kakadu NP. They’re built off the ground (as many houses are) to protect you from all the Cathedral and Magnetic Termites (Magnetic Termites, which are blind, build their paper thin but tall nests aligned precisely with magnetic north, which minimizes the amount of sunlight that strikes them, keeping the mounds and creatures inside cool and comfortable). Yes, it’s true – the legend of Crocodile Dundee is alive and well in the Outback. On to the retrospective: Trinity Beach on the north coast. Felt like Kauai. Truly sublime. Sydney architecture. Hill Inlet, Whitsunday Island. If Eden exists, this is it. Town of 1770’s five mile beach (one of countless that long in Queensland and New South Wales). The wreck of the SS Maheno on Fraser Island. Evening in Noosa Heads. Coffs Cove. Matt in Lamington NP. Waterfall on our Lamington hike. Guess where. Byron Bay – eastern most point of the continent and a great town. ‘Roos and Matt in Mallacoota. Koala on Raymond Island. Sorrento beach early morning. Surfers’ dream. Great Ocean Road. Adelaide veterans’ protest. Uluru basking in sunset with full moon rise. It confirmed my belief in a higher power. Kevin, a/k/a Chevy, the proprietor of the Pink Panther Pub and Roadhouse in Larrimah. Darwin’s Harbor. Hope that was fun. I’m heading to the Blue Mountains in Wollemi National Park, a couple of hours inland from Sydney, tomorrow (thanks to Matt’s suggestion). After that, I’m off to Tasmania, which I’m really excited about. After Tasmania, Perth and Fremantle beckon. After that, reality and the States beckon….        

I’m sitting on the water in Manly, a gorgeous suburb of Sydney, and smiling a really big smile. This view on Manley’s promenade is just so perfect. Imagine living here and being a fifteen minute ferry commute to downtown Sydney. Send it in… This is my third time in Manly in the past five weeks (whodathunk?), and life is good. Really good. For some reason, Manly called out to me today after the drive from Darwin, so I obliged, and I’m really glad that I did. The vibe here is just awesome. I finished the 2,400 mile drive from Darwin to Sydney this morning after visiting Blue Mountains National Park in Katoomba earlier in the day. Absolutely beautiful place. It was a long drive, mate and the countryside coming into Katoomba was absolutely gorgeous after last night’s rains and clearing skies. Decided to go to Tasmania for three days after the song of the Sirens kept tugging at me, so I’m off to the wildest parts of Australia (as I’ve been told by mates who know the lay of the land here) early tomorrow. Aussies love to shorten words and add a “y” or an “ie” to the end of the abbreviated term, so to them I’m going to Tassy, or more commonly, Tassie. Pretty funny – breakfast is brekky, football is footy, chocolate is choccy, petrol is petty, and on and on. I love it because it’s part of how sweet and chilled everyone here is. I mentioned the “Road Trains” here on Australia’s small, winding roads. Here’s a triple – small brother to the big boys – 4 very long full load trucks, which I’ve seen all too often. You get the idea…. Not fun to pass on the right at night going 135 KPH, but they’re good drivers unless they have to turn or stop… Yes, indeed. Three Sisters peaks in Blue Mountains National Park, Katoomba. The Park gets its name from the oil dispersed into the air by its Eucalyptus trees, which shades the landscape with a beautiful blue hue. My buddies in Manly. Great gyros and conversation with Nikko and his son. Matt – you remember them. This chap was so happy to look up and see me taking his photo. Only in Australia… Sydney’s charms extend to its neighborhoods and architecture. Met the sweetest Aussie lass, Kate, an engineer in the Australian Navy, and ended up chatting for over an hour on a street corner near the harbor. Here’s her toy. I was impressed. Sydney’s downtown skyline at day’s end from the Art Gallery (following shot). I popped in (it’s open ’till 10 pm every day – how cool) and wandered into a big party with the architects chosen for the museum’s expansion giving a presentation of the proposed work. What a super nice crowd. Francesca, from a small town in Italy, educating me on great Italian wines. What an angel. Outside my hotel. 1963 Porsche 356B. This couple was so happy to stop and chat with me on their night out on the town. Off to Tassie. Really excited. Next post will be from the other side of the Tasman Sea… I’ve been told to be careful with Tassy Devils over there. No wonder…. Before I forget – an updated map of my journey so far:  

Tasmania is impossibly beautiful. It’s so pristine, so rugged and so earthy that it doesn’t compare to anywhere else I’ve ever been. Mountains, ocean and bays are everywhere, juxtaposed together into a spectacular landscape that defies description. Words fall really short in describing it, and I’m rarely at a loss for words. Hobart, mid morning. Everywhere you peek, the water beckons. Mount Wellington keeping sentinel over Hobart, snow-capped after this week’s storms. I’m headed up in a couple of days. Arthur Circus in Battery Point. A circular street of gorgeous cottages constructed in the 1800’s to house British military officers. Very neat. I got the local history from a resident who stopped me to chat. Seven Mile Beach, just minutes outside Hobart en route to the Tasman Peninsula. Holy smokes – beyond gorgeous, with a perfect break to boot. Port Arthur started as a British timber outpost in 1830 and then converted in the ensuing decades to a brutal prison and convict settlement for incorrigible criminals who the Crown wanted as far from the UK as possible. Think they succeeded? Nobody was swimming back to Dover from here. Ah, the benefits of slave labor. The historic sight is amazingly well-preserved after the inevitable dilapidation caused by a hundred and eighty years of weathering. It was a bit eery to walk its grounds, which are located in a stunningly beautiful location. You could almost hear the screams and cries of its prisoners begging to be released from their misery. Sorry, fellas….break’s over… Knowing how beautiful the countryside was outside your cell had to make one’s stay even more grim. Cellblock with fireplace heat to keep the prisoners toasty and warm. Not. I’m sure the guards were kept quite comfy, however. The Convict Church. I was blown away by this building. Even after its deterioration, it was magnificent to see and walk through. It really grabbed me. The main cellblock, with hospital and barracks behind. Tasman Blow Hole. Really wild as the waves were compressed and shot up a hundred feet. En route from Port Arthur to Swansea on the east coast, where I stayed the night. Approaching Swansea next morning, contemplating Freycinet National Park and its peninsula. Incredible. I’m off to the northern stretches of Tassie today. Weather’s great – I’m psyched.  

Today was superb in terms of weather, scenery and vibe. Just north of Swansea, heading for Coles Bay and Freycinet National Park. Brekky view in Coles Bay, overlooking the Hazards in Freycinet NP. The Hazards (named for sailors’ comfort, no doubt). View towards mainland from Cape Tourville Lighthouse. Friendly Beaches in Freycinet NP. Yes, that’s their real name. Not sure why, but I had to stop and capture this. Hard to know if it was a good deal. Lunch view in Bicheno. The seafood here is just fantastic. Wish I had my GS here. The roads are perfect for twisting the throttle and ripping it up. Even the animals have a majestic natural glow to them. This was on the ride from St. Helens to Launceston. I was gonna meander on the north coast, but I’m so glad I drove this way. The scenery was off the charts, with winding roads, mountain passes, tiny villages and crazy beautiful views everywhere. His friends moseyed over for a peek. All young bulls. Then they stared me down… Ben Lomand National Park’s skyline, north of Derby. Female youngsters up the road. The earth is just electric here, buzzing with energy and color. Salmon fishing is religion here. This wonder was painted on a cliff and measured about a hundred feet across. Cool. Chasing the sun en route to Launceston, late afternoon. Launceston, Tasmania’s second largest settlement (74,000) after Hobart (200,000), appears out of the forest primeval in the north country. A bit surprising to see a pretty big town up here, but I had fun last night hanging with some locals. Exchanged numbers and texts with Adrian, a musician and petroleum engineer, before calling it a night (they were heading off to another pub and we were tired), and when we woke up and I turned my phone on this morning, I received his text, sent sometime late last night, saying, and I quote: “Hey, Richie, sorry to bother you but things turned south after we parted. I’ve been locked up for best part of the night. Could use your services?” Wow. Good call parting ways. .. Adrian has’t responded to my text today, so I guess he’s OK, or a prison guard has a new phone…  Off to Cradle Mountain National Park and other exotic treasures.

Yesterday was spent kicking around Tassie’s northern stretches and making our way, after two road detours due to storm wash outs (my weather timing after this weeks’ rain and snow storms was perfect), to Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park. Along the drive to the Park, outside Launceston. It turns from big town to countryside in the blink of an eye. Indeed. These murals astounded me. They were in the middle of nowhere, painted on the sides of a hydro electric plant building. How someone managed to get them there on ribbed walls fifteen feet high was beyond me. Natural art surrounded by nature – nice. We had to turn around twice on really small back roads en route to the Park because of storm road damage and wash outs. Determined, we pushed on with good old-fashioned maps (no GPS or cell signals out there). The effort was so worth it – Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park is really something to behold. Approaching the Park. High alpine tundra. Surprise – me in front of the lens, captured by my crafty assistant. Our timing was fantastic – it was really socked in a half hour away, the peaks barely visible through thick clouds, and as we finished our hike, the weather quickly closed in again. When we arrived and during our stay, however, things were perfect. We’ve really been blessed weather-wise the past five weeks. Someone has been smiling down on us, for sure. Snow made the hike a bit slippery, but the woods and views were beautiful. Finally, it felt like winter down under. Alas, the hand of man appears starkly in Queenstown and its environs in the form of mineral mining. Mountains laid low in a place where nature rules supreme is a shock, but reality often intrudes unexpectedly. Heading back to Hobart, late afternoon, through Tassie’s gorgeous lake country. Another terrific day. Tasmania is incredibly special. I hope to come back on my next visit down under. There’s so much more to see, and the people are so warm and engaging here, that returning is a must. Off to Perth and Fremantle tomorrow. Urban drama – should be fun.  

Yesterday was a travel day – Hobart to Sydney to Perth (flying from Hobart to Perth requires a layover in one of Australia’s other major cities), but we had the morning to kick around in Hobart. It’s such a charming town in every way – its location, architecture, setting beneath Kunanyi (ancestral name) / Mr. Wellington and the people make it fantastic. Decided to head up there – 4,176′ above town via a very steep and winding road, but first we took a stroll around the harbor and had breakfast. Breakfast restaurant. Fish for breakfast? You bet, mate. A little-known fact – Hobart is Lester’s ancestral homeland. And yes, that also makes him a Tasmanian Devil (but we knew that). Leaving the harbor, looking up towards Mt. Wellington. Half way up, and the weather’s perfect. Not for long. Winter bade a chilly hello as we climbed the road. This was only ten minutes from downtown’s harbor, where it was 60 degrees and sunny. Quite cold up top and pretty much completely socked in, so we headed down after a short stay. Here’s a map of my travels in Tasmania. There’s so much more to see, so I’ll have to come back. It really is magical here, and they’ve kept it so pristine and inviting. See you next time, Tassie….  

Arrived in Perth Sunday night and headed to my hotel. Yesterday I woke up and poked around a bit before heading to Perth’s neighbor Fremantle (“Freo,” as locals affectionately call it), said by many to be the coolest town in Australia. That would be saying a lot, but it’s true, and I’ve seen a ton of cool towns on this trip. Perth, early Monday morning. Really nice architecture and skyline, but cities are cities in many ways to me, so I was soon off to the beach. Itchin’ for some coastline again… Cottesloe Beach, ten minutes from downtown Perth. A big storm moved through yesterday with 12′ swells. Today, the wind changed to offshore, things calmed down a bit and lots of surfers were out there with big grins. Contemplating life. And the next ride… This dude was hands down the coolest guy I’ve met in a while. He had a shower with hot water in his SUV, so after ripping it up out there he rinsed off, changed into natty threads and headed to work. Brilliant, mate. Talk about a target-rich environment for photographing – Freo just blew me away. First stop was Fremantle Prison, opened in 1860 and closed in 1991. Yes – this medieval place stayed open until that recently. It was fascinating and chilling at the same time to visit the place, knowing how central to Australia’s history prisoners, convicts and their stories have always been. We had a terrific guide, whose knowledge of the place and story telling were totally enthralling. Convict Church. Funny how the Church of England tortured and tormented the Crown’s prisoners throughout the world for centuries, including extracting slave labor from them, yet always provided the balm of religion and its message that you are loved and God will always be beside you. Solitary confinement cell. Not a lot of room for stretching out here… Inside the cell of an artist convict, who was allowed to ply his trade in his new home. I assume that he bribed the guards or played their girlfriend… Death row cellblock. This cell was the last one you ever entered, for only two hours, the morning you met your maker at 8:00 am sharp in the gallows (don’t be late – it’s so impolite). The bucket beside the stool was for doing your (last) business. This cell’s starkness and raw power were absolutely chilling. More artwork, in an outside recreation area where the notorious 1988 prison riot was hatched. The gallows. No prisoner ever walked out of here. They were carried out in body bags after a shot of rum and the tightening of the noose sealed their fate. Wow – talk about focusing the mind… Back in town, out and about. This little girl was wailing seconds before, but was just adorable when I locked my lens on her. Totally tricked-out 1980 BMW R100S. Sweet ride. Chatted bikes with its owner for a while. Native art. Galleries in town are fantastic. Sidewalk marker. Architectural whimsy in the process of being born beside stately neighbors. Fremantle Battery and its original prison, overlooking the harbor. Man, these guys just loved locking people up. Slipping into the zeitgeist… Definitely not an enjoyable feeling. Say this three times fast. And I thought German was hard to pronounce. Mens’ Room at the Battery. Magnificent. Of what? Getting hit by a train? A professor and his students chillin’ at an outdoor cafe close to Notre Dame, a local university that gives Freo a terrific, youthful vibe. Peering inside a building on campus. Monument to Portugese explorers who helped found Fremantle. Didn’t know they were part of its story. The grand ferris wheel in Esplanade Park. This was big – each car held ten people. More native art. I felt as though she was calling out to me. Mark, the owner of a truly fantastic vinyl record store in town. Had to stop in and chat with him for a bit after hearing the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack album blasting from inside as we strolled by. Super guy. Lots of bikes in Freo. Little Creatures Brewing on Freo’s Esplanade. This VW pick up parked at the entrance really grabbed my attention, reminding me of Burning Girl, my 1978 VW Westy camper. Chris, our bartender. Fun guy. Freo folks just wanna have fun… Wish we were here for the fest. Wait – maybe we’ll just stay and wait a couple of weeks for it… View from Little Creatures’ rear patio. Two really fun local characters we chatted up for a bit. Both worked on the sea. Just loved that Vee Dub. Another fantastic day in a place I’ll definitely come back to. Make sure you see Fremantle if your travels take you down under. It truly rocks. Talk mañana…    

Another day in paradise / Freo, but unfortunately my last in Australia. I’m packing up and flying back to Marin tonight, which I’m really excited about, but I must say that I’m terribly sad to be leaving Oz. I feel safe in saying, today, that this has been one of the best trips I’ve ever taken, and I’ve been around the block a bit. Australia is magical in so many ways – geography, weather, ocean and mountains, its people and its entire vibe. Comparisons with the States are inevitable, so here goes if you’re interested – Australia is far more civilized than the States. I didn’t meet, or see one person in my five weeks of travel here raise their voice or act in a rude or nasty manner towards anyone else. That includes adults and their children, who are astoundingly chilled and well-behaved compared to many I’ve seen back home. In the States, a lot of people act as though they’re being put upon constantly (and many, in fact, are) – ground down under the pressures of work, family, life, etc. I never saw or felt that down under. People smile all the time, are cheery and super friendly, and it absolutely is not an act. It’s just the way everyone is here because life is so darned good. Wouldn’t you like to hit the beach and surf every day, for goodness’ sake, before heading off to the office or whatever else you’re doing? I sure would, and am gonna adopt the Aussie way of living and being happy and grateful all the time back in Marin. Shouldn’t have sold my surfboard last year, but another with my name on it most assuredly awaits… The disparity in wealth and the two and three income workers so common in the States doesn’t appear to exist in Australia. People work one job, are paid well, have ample vacation time (and travel very widely) and don’t pay for many of the things Americans must – higher education, medical care and retirement (superannuation, as it’s called in Australia, is akin to the days when American companies paid pensions (remember that word?) to their employees, as in a defined benefit plan, without the employee having to fund them and stress over how they’ll be able to live in retirement). It works really well, and it’s wonderful. Do shareholders and senior management make a killing? Likely not, but that’s not what life is all about here. We could definitely take a lesson or ten from the Aussies here. Life is short, and I’ve never believed that we’re born to work until we drop dead. Not for me, mate. I totally get Australia’s values and paradigm, and absolutely love them. These differences, I believe, make a huge difference to the fabric of life in both countries. In the States, people are consumed with obtaining and increasing wealth, and it is unfortunately, as we know,  a zero sum game. When the pie is redistributed, as it has so dramatically been over the past forty years in the States, there are most assuredly winners and losers. I believe that Donald Trump or someone like him could never appeal to as many people as he does if something very serious wasn’t wrong with the state of affairs back home. I could go on and on, but another poignant difference is that people just aren’t disagreeable here. No one I met, and we met scores and scores of folks in our travels, acts as though you’re goring their ox if you disagree with them. It goes back to my core belief, forever, that you can disagree with others without being disagreeable. That is a bedrock reality here, but unfortunately not in the States. Another big difference is that people appear to be far closer to each other in wealth and income here than in the States. Venues, stadiums, beaches, parks, museums, restaurants and pretty much all the places that Aussies go are cheerfully shared and used by everyone in total harmony, and they’re beautiful places, all. In the States, there is an exclusivity about so many places. That kind of sucks for those who don’t or can’t go to them. This is a night and day difference – Aussies are all part of one big, happy team. In the States, many folks (some with bankrolls like the Yankees) with a lot of the pie live in a separate social and financial world, and don’t interact with vast numbers of their countrymen. That just can’t help but breed isolation and resentment. Think about it… There, I’m off my soap box now… Time for fun recollections. Coogee Beach – ten miles south of Freo. The Surf Club there and everywhere (there’s one in every beach town) is a true community center – a really cool combination health club, gym, restaurant and place where everyone, old and young, hang out together in real happiness and camaraderie. “Come on in – the water’s great.” Whoa. Freo’s Shipwreck Museum. First one I’ve ever seen. Totally cool. It’s said that this bloke was dispatched by great whites deep down, after drowning, then pieced back together by the marine archeologists who found him long after his unfortunate demise. Dutch hull and Greek arch (huh?). Didn’t intuitively grasp the connection. On the Esplanade. Art is everywhere in Freo, and it’s fun and inviting. This was cast, no doubt, prior to the Elle McPherson era. Her doubles are everywhere down under. Amazing. Freo’s fishing fleet – serious stuff. The seafood is so fresh and good here. Now I know why. Neat story here. While walking out on Freo’s jetty and stopping for photos, I dropped my beloved Ray-Bans into the rocks. Down they went – 6 feet or more – and I couldn’t for the life of me even see a trace of them from where I stood and squirmed around, peering downward at every possible angle. Totally bummed, I kept at it, determined not to leave them to the sea. Finally, just before giving up and crying in my beer, I spied the very end of one of the earpieces. I headed back to a nearby shipyard and asked a fellow there if he had any stiff wire. “Of course, mate – be right back” was his reply. Five minutes later, I was back on the jetty and, miraculously, snagged my shades on the first try with the bent end of the baling wire we’d fashioned. That totally made my day, as the sun and water were super bright and I just didn’t want to say goodbye to my Aviators. A great rescue. Reminded me of my lifeguarding days on the beach out east… I didn’t know, and hadn’t heard, what a didgeridoo was until we strolled into this local shop where we chatted up the owner, bought boomerangs and learned that they are very large native wind instruments still widely used throughout the country. Cool. Back at my fave watering hole, again. What a neat name. No idea where it came from, but it must be a funny story. Well, I guess the trip is now a wrap. I’m sitting in Melbourne’s airport, having a terrific cup of coffee after flying from Perth last night (Aussies absolutely love their coffee and really know how to make it), waiting for my flights to LA and San Francisco. This journey has been absolutely fantastic, far exceeding my expectations in every way imaginable. I’m so glad that I came and experienced what I have. Thanks to everyone for following me on this jaunt. It has really felt good to have the connection with friends and family back home these past five weeks, and I appreciate it greatly. I’m already planning my next adventure, and one thing is sure – I’ll be back down under – no question about it. Although I covered a lot of ground during my stay – over 12,000 miles by road and quite a bit more in the air, I feel that I’ve barely scratched Australia’s magnificent surface in terms of its fabulous geographic, social and cultural riches. G’day, mates. It’s been a blast, and I can’t wait till my next visit to Oz. Cheers, Rich