Chile is really big – 2,700 miles north to south, although it is simultaneously quite narrow – 276 miles at its widest and only 40 at its narrowest. The Andes Mountains, which run its entire length, are the longest mountain chain on Earth and second highest after the Himalayas, spanning 5,500 miles north to south and scraping the heavens with their highest peak, Aconcagua (which I’ll see next month), at 24,000’. Chile possesses quite a unique shape and topography, which substantially hindered its conquest by the Spaniards.

Starting out in Santiago and heading southward somewhat bisected its length for me, and I’ll leave the Atacama Desert and its northern wilds to another trip.

I made a big push the first three days in order to get to Pucón and the Lake District. It is a stunning area, with volcanos, snow clad peaks, lakes and dense forests seemingly everywhere.

Volcán Villarica, just outside of Pucón, in its winter coat (it’s mid spring here now):

Pucón is a cool, yet pretty touristy town relative to everywhere I’ve been so far. More first world than second or third. Lots of everything, yet the great outdoors beckon in every direction and you’re in the wilderness in a kilometer or so whatever direction you point your compass. I resupplied with food and excellent Chilean Pilsner (yippee), and was off to Parque Nacionál Villarica and the Argentine frontier, approximately 40 km southeast of town, accessed through a big climb. Pretty spectaular hiking and climbing all day, with great scenery en route:

A gaucho moving part of his herd:

Not sure I’d choose this outfitter – looks like this guy didn’t fare too well:

My home away from home these six weeks. Pretty darned comfortable and a lot of fun to travel in. I’ve got a mountain bike, spare petrol, water and miscellaneous other gear and necessities stowed up top:

Approaching Volcán Lanín, en route to the Argentine frontier:

A little excitement in Currarehue, on the way back from the frontier, where I stayed last night. Someone’s house caught on fire and the entire town turned out to watch the firefighters fight and extinguish it:

Volcán Villaríca from the east, en route to Licán Ray. It was venting on the northeast side, with the snow turned ashen grey. People here live in constant vigilance with these two active volcanos, which emit steam, ash and on occasion, pyrotechnic flows.

I’m chilling in Licán Ray now, about 35 km south of Pucón. What a postcard perfect little hamlet, ringed by scenic mountains and bordered by Lake Calofquén:

Off to mounain bike. Should be fun, with lots of single track in every direction. Will check in soon…

Approaching Santiago –

On the ground –

Getting here was a breeze. I flew through Atlanta with a short layover, as there are no non-stops from SFO to Santiago.

After picking up my camper downtown, I wanted to walk the old city, but the weather was fast changing with a storm moving in, so I headed for Viña del Mar on the Pacific coast. I’ll walk the historic district when I’m back in December.

Once out of the bowl in which Santiago resides, the weather broke and beautiful blue skies appeared.

Viña del Mar and its sister city, Valparaiso, entertain urban Chileans more than tourists, and as such drew me towards them. Viña, as the locals call it, was a center of sugar cane and fishing historically, and now moves sun and sand seekers in and out. After checking into my hotel, I meandered through town in search of a Chilean SIM card. After a little frustration (neither Entel nor Movistar, the two national communications giants, had any in their retail stores), I came upon these young ladies selling them in an Entel pop-up location. Game on.

Wired (wirelessly), I meandered back to the hotel to resort my gear and ask for a great local restaurant. Mattio, the owner, highly recommended Donde Willy, several blocks away, and after wrestling with the silly name, I moseyed on over.

What an awesome treat. I was greeted heartily by Mario, the owner, and spoke with him about my trip before talking about his background and what they served. I put myself completely in his hands, and he rewarded me richly, bringing me incredible food and wine and regaling me throughout my meal with great stories. One of the most intriguing was that of the Carménère grape, a Cabernet Sauvignon variety from France, which was rediscovered in Chile after being killed off in France by the Phylloxera bacteria a hundred years ago and thought to have disappeared from the planet forever, leaving many who knew it there totally distraught. The French were ecstatic about serendipitously unearthing it in Chile in 1994, and found it necessary to splice it into Cab vines there in order for it to thrive in the French terroir. Fantastic wine and food and amazing conversation and story swapping with Mario.

Mario showing off a terrific local Carménère:

After dinner, feeling terrific and renewed, I strolled down to the beach and soon hit the proverbial energy wall after being up for thirty six straight hours. The sensible thing to do was to crash and recharge, and I don’t think I could’ve done anything else, so I hit the hay around 9 pm and slept till 6 am today, after which I headed south, through Algarrobo and then Curico in the wine district, where I’m chilling in front of a huge fire in a great hotel now with a glass of great local Cab. Ahhh – recharged and relaxed.

Earlier in town at the magnificent Plaza de Armas:

Off to dinner – should be another delicious one here in wine country. Heading to Chillán and its volcanoes tomorrow. Looking forward to climbing into the Andes and gaining some el.

I’m stoked that my Spanish is quickly coming back. Feels great, and I’m looking forward to getting into the groove with it, as I’m already skipping the process of thinking first in English and translating words into Spanish in my mind.
Caio for now.

Distant places beckon…. Several weeks till lift off and I’m getting pretty excited. I’ve rented a camper van for six weeks (yet again, as I love traveling this way), will buy a bike when I land in Santiago, and will travel through a good chunk of Chile and Argentina, hiking and riding through the Andes and their peaks, valleys, fjords and glaciers, during my journey. (An editorial note – you can click on any photo in this blog to enlarge it. Also, I’ll be using local SIM cards in both countries and won’t therefore receive calls or texts to my US number. I will, of course, receive e-mails. If you’d like to call or text or call me, please do so on WhatsApp).

I’ve calculated my anticipated route and total distance, both of which are pretty large, although of course they’re merely rough estimates right now, as I’ll be meandering the entire trip, poking around everywhere, staying longer where I find cool spots and shoving off where I’m not enchanted and excited to be (not likely to be too many places, from what I know and have read). I have a bunch of places I want to see, but no reservations anywhere. The trip will unfold as it will – in that sense, it will be the usual spirit quest adventure….

I’ve been studying and refreshing my Spanish skills, which have fallen into a rusty state after decades of fluency ( I’ve learned over the years that I need to use it or lose it). I’m finding the online instruction I’ve chosen to be pretty good and I know, from my four month sojourn through Columbia, Equador, Peru and Bolivia back in the Pleistocene, that my proficiency should return pretty quickly once I’m immersed in the language and culture 24/7. Looking forward to dreaming again in Spanish, as that was super cool.

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine bathing in afternoon light:

and at dusk:

More to come as the journey nears…