The push from Uluru to Darwin was pretty big – 1,218 miles through the Northern Territory. I decided to split it into two days, stopping in Tennant Creek, pretty much in the middle of nowhere but halfway to Darwin on the Stuart Highway, which connects Darwin with Adelaide, 1,900 miles to the south. Because of Tennant Creek’s really small size and population (almost all natives), accommodation choices were very limited. The place I stayed in reminded me of a prison cell (not that I’ve spent a night in one, mind you), and I was more than happy to shove off the next morning for Darwin.

Giant Cathedral Termite mounds on the Stuart Highway. I thought these were rock formations at first – they get up to 15 feet tall. crazy. These were 3′ – 4′ in height. Wouldn’t want to mess with those ‘mites, mate.

Of course I had to stop at the Pink Panther Pub and Roadhouse in Daly Waters for gas (“Sorry, mate – our petrol station burned down twelve years ago”) and provisions. I’ve learned on this trip (and in Alaska) that when you live hundreds of miles from the nearest settlement and people, you can become rather whimsical. It’s a common theme in the outback. I think it helps take your mind off the isolation and sameness each day. Having said that, the folks that live and work in these tiny hamlets couldn’t be more friendly, outgoing or helpful. They are just fantastic people.

Local whimsy.

Dennis, a/k/a Chevy because of all the American cars he’s owned, is the proprietor of the PPP. I ordered a meat pie (one of the staples on the road here, which are actually quite good everywhere), and he gave me one, insisting that it was on the house. He said it had been in the oven keeping warm for a couple of hours and there was no charge What a swell guy. He wouldn’t let me pay him or buy anything (it was too early for a beer). We talked for a bit about American muscle cars – his knowledge was really impressive – after which it was time to say goodbye. A real charmer, that Chevy.

‘Nuf said.

Thursday night in Darwin. A native, after a bit too much imbibing on her bike. I think the charge was wobbly riding.

Mindil Beach sunset gathering. Reminded me of church.

Indigenous ladies enjoying the market.

Filed under the category Dumb, or at least wanting in personal safety. This mate was swimming with a 20 foot long, 80 year old giant salt water croc. Both his front feet had been bitten off in attacks long ago, so I guess he wasn’t too dangerous. Not. I was amazed that he could survive those attacks, but a ranger told me that they can slow their heart rate, and blood loss, down dramatically to avoiding bleeding to death after battle. Likely just one of the reasons they’ve been around for 200 million years…

Peering out at Darwin’s harbor.

I didn’t know that Darwin was bombed by the Japanese in WW II – by the same crew and only two months after Pearl Harbor was attacked. Darwin became very fortified shortly afterwards as the bulwark against a Japanese invasion of Australia, a very serious threat at the time until the U.S. took the fight to the Japs and prevented a full-on Australian invasion. A number of American sailors and soldiers also lost their lives in the attack, some going down in their harbored ships.

Darwin’s underground oil storage tanks (chiseled by hand into cliff rock), constructed shortly after the Japanese bombings.

Stokes Hill Wharf, with a bunch of great ethnic restaurants overlooking the Beagle Gulf and Timor Sea. The Asian food proximity and influence here are just fantastic.

Sunset and cocktails with Aussie friends last night.

This is my third day in Darwin, and I feel sad leaving. It’s such a cool place, and the weather up north (remember, it’s winter in Australia and it was kind of cool way down south in Adelaide and its environs) is amazing – 88F today. I’m off to Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks, after which I’ll meander through New South Wales and Queensland towards the Blue Mountains (Australia’s ski country – I may have to carve some turns) en route to Sydney. In Sydney, I’ll trade my wheels for wings, heading to Perth, Fremantle and the west coast for a bit before heading back to the States. Caiao for now.