Chile is really big – 2,700 miles north to south, although it is simultaneously quite narrow – 276 miles at its widest and only 40 at its narrowest. The Andes Mountains, which run its entire length, are the longest mountain chain on Earth and second highest after the Himalayas, spanning 5,500 miles north to south and scraping the heavens with their highest peak, Aconcagua (which I’ll see next month), at 24,000’. Chile possesses quite a unique shape and topography, which substantially hindered its conquest by the Spaniards.

Starting out in Santiago and heading southward somewhat bisected its length for me, and I’ll leave the Atacama Desert and its northern wilds to another trip.

I made a big push the first three days in order to get to Pucón and the Lake District. It is a stunning area, with volcanos, snow clad peaks, lakes and dense forests seemingly everywhere.

Volcán Villarica, just outside of Pucón, in its winter coat (it’s mid spring here now):

Pucón is a cool, yet pretty touristy town relative to everywhere I’ve been so far. More first world than second or third. Lots of everything, yet the great outdoors beckon in every direction and you’re in the wilderness in a kilometer or so whatever direction you point your compass. I resupplied with food and excellent Chilean Pilsner (yippee), and was off to Parque Nacionál Villarica and the Argentine frontier, approximately 40 km southeast of town, accessed through a big climb. Pretty spectaular hiking and climbing all day, with great scenery en route:

A gaucho moving part of his herd:

Not sure I’d choose this outfitter – looks like this guy didn’t fare too well:

My home away from home these six weeks. Pretty darned comfortable and a lot of fun to travel in. I’ve got a mountain bike, spare petrol, water and miscellaneous other gear and necessities stowed up top:

Approaching Volcán Lanín, en route to the Argentine frontier:

A little excitement in Currarehue, on the way back from the frontier, where I stayed last night. Someone’s house caught on fire and the entire town turned out to watch the firefighters fight and extinguish it:

Volcán Villaríca from the east, en route to Licán Ray. It was venting on the northeast side, with the snow turned ashen grey. People here live in constant vigilance with these two active volcanos, which emit steam, ash and on occasion, pyrotechnic flows.

I’m chilling in Licán Ray now, about 35 km south of Pucón. What a postcard perfect little hamlet, ringed by scenic mountains and bordered by Lake Calofquén:

Off to mounain bike. Should be fun, with lots of single track in every direction. Will check in soon…

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