Picking up Speed

Scott chose our itinerary for his stay, so we left Chefchouen and headed south towards the desert. En route, we visited Volubilis, a UNESCO third century Roman administrative center that is marvelously preserved. It was enormous compared to other Roman towns I’ve seen, and it really impressed. They really did build to last…

We could almost hear the voices of ancient Romans mulling about and planning their next conquest. It was truly amazing to contemplate the Empire’s expanse back then.

After Volubilis, we headed to Fez, Morocco’s spiritual capital and home to the world’s largest medina. Nowhere else on Eatrth can you wander so far in a pedestrian only mall. Fez is the leather tanning and manufacturing center of Morocco, and its craftsmen and women are everywhere. A really unique visit.

After Fez, we were off to Merzouga, where the Sahara Desert overtakes the continent and which sits four miles from the Algerian border. Merzouga was surreal – forlorn and incredibly stark, yet inviting and warm at the same time. The heat somewhat overwhelmed, yet we headed out into the vastness to explore and learn.

This was a desert oasis miles from Mezouga. Underground water provides life where you’d never believe it could exist. Truly amazing.

Off for a camel rise at sunset. These are really cool creatures. Almost exclusively males, after castration chills them out, (bummer, doods), they appear and feel totally prehistoric in their movements and disposition. Pretty wild buckin’ along on them.

This is the tallest sand dune in the entire Sahara. I jumped it on the quad….

Scott has been an awesome companion and navigator, taking us to great places all week.

After the desert, we headed towards the High Atlas Mountains again and Ait Ben Haddou, another ancient UNESCO town that is incredibly preserved. Game of Thrones and Gladiator were filmed here (I know, big whup), and it has a completely otherworldly feeling.

We’re off to Essaouria today, on the coast, as we wend our way back to Casablanca for Scott to head home. Here’s the trip so far. After landing in Morocco, I headed south to imlil in the HIgh Atlas, then west to the coast. We’ve traveled a lot, with more to come as Deborah arrives in five days. More fun to come. Stay tuned….

Gettin’ into the Groove

Wow. We arrived in Rabat yesterday and the vibe change from Casablanca was tremendous. Where Casablanca was noisy, crowded and cacophonous, Rabat is immaculate, uncrowded, quiet and sublime.

Morocco’s capital city is a showcase for the world – and Morocco – to see. The King lives here, and everything appears focused on beauty and nature. Rabat reminds me of Washington, DC – our nation’s showplace.

We meandered around the city yesterday, taking in the old casbah, the Medina and the Challah, a Medieval fort and necropolis dating back to ancient Roman days. It forms one of four UNESCO heritage sites in Rabat. Amazing site that is perfectly preserved and protected. Here are some shots of the Casbah, the Medina and the Challah:

After Rabat, we drove to Chefchaouen, high up in the Atlas Mountains. It is truly another world, with many of its buildings painted blue back in the 1930’s to welcome Jews fleeing Europe. The color is said to represent sea, sky and freedom, and it elevates your mood while walking around and exploring.

A side note – I love street photography and taking photos of individuals, but here in Morocco, people are extremely uncomfortable having their photos taken. That’s something I’ve experienced elsewhere, and you have to respect it, but the result is that unfortunately I’m not able to share some of the amazing faces, outfits and expressions we’re seeing. C’est la vie….

We’re off to the ancient Roman city of Volubilus, then Meknes and Fes. They’re all close to each other, about three hours south of Chefchaouen, and the drive should be beautiful. Looking forward to more great scenery and people.

In Country

After an early morning flight from Lisbon, I landed in Marrakech Sunday morning. Smooth sailing through the airport and car pick up and I was off to the races.

Since Scott wasn’t arriving until Tuesday, I decided to head for the mountains to do a little recon and spend time up high. The Atlas Mountains in Morocco are the highest in northern Africa. The biggest peak, Jbel Toubkal, stands at 13,671′ and is snow capped year round. The drive up from Marrakech, although only fifty or so miles, is very windy and slow going. Here was my introduction to the landscape, driving through small mountain towns along the way:

My bro Mohammed, a geologist who I met on the way up to Toubkal. Incredibly nice fellow, and he spoke very good English. He showed me the gorgeous geodes, fossilized stones and polished pieces he had excavated and sculpted himself, and we engaged in haggling (de rigueur in these parts) for an hour on and off. He was quite tenacious, but in a really charming way. He wanted me to buy everything he had on his motorbike and in his djellaba. Miraculously, I got away with buying only one super cool polished stone that contained a large fossilized anthropod (in my hand below). I will treasure it and remember him by it.

I stayed in the town of Imlil Sunday night, which is the gateway to Jbel Toubkal and the highest peaks in Morocco. Pretty amazing place, and finding my hotel took over an hour because I had to walk a half mile to it after parking my car, which confused the hell out of GPS. The crew there were incredible – warm, kind and very inquisitive about California and the States. We had a lot of fun together.

The next morning, yesterday (I’m still a bit jet lagged from the journey and time zone change), I set off for the coast, as I was picking up Scott this morning in Casablanca. Beautiul drive through lush countryside with many goat and olive farms along the way. Here are shots from El Jadida, a pretty beach and fishing town south of Casablanca. Outdoor tagine cooking up in mini pots:

The Portugese Cistern in El Jadida. It was built as an enormous fort in 1541 and lies beneath the Citadel. Very neat.

Chillin’ –

Bummer, dood…. I met the local constabulary en route to Casablanca. Came into a roundabout too hot and got busted for 68 (Km/hr) in a 60. That was the bad news. The good news was that the fine, payable on the spot, was only 150 Moroccan Dirham (~$15.00 US). Very nice guys, notwithstanding the circumstances. A not so quick getaway then ensued…

Heading north:

Casablanca is home to The Hassan II Mosque. Its minaret, at 689′, is the world’s second tallest. It’s just immense and a bit disorienting in size, and it definitely makes you feel small, which I love.

Inside:

After the Mosque, we had a great Moroccan fusion lunch. Here’s Scott on one hour of sleep after arriving early this morning.

Abdul, our host:

Yes, that Rick’s Cafe:

Scott goofing around at our AirBnB:

So, I’m three days into my month long stay and have a few preliminary observations about the country and people. Moroccans are incredibly warm, kind and helpful. It’s really a pleasure being here so far. They’re just generally super nice people. The countryside is beautiful. It’s a great time of year to be here – after the winter rains, with the snow melt greening things up, and it’s delightfully cool now. Casablanca is a big, boisterous city with all that connotes, but it has a great vibe and its fun being here. History is everywhere you look.

We’re off to Rabat, then Chefchaouen in the next several days. Should be really fun. Heading out to dinner. More to come soon.

Touching Down and Settling In

I landed in Lisbon on Saturday after a long but smooth flight from San Francisco. Really good to be back – Lisbon is a great place that for many years was somewhat off the radar relative to other European destinations. No more. – it now seems like everyone wants to visit and many Americans want to live here (gee, I wonder why….). It’s just as beautiful and charming as during my last visit with Matt and Mark.

After checking into my hotel, I meandered down to Avenida Da Liberdade, with its elegant parks, cafes and stylish Lisboetas. I had a delicious dinner at an outdoor cafe right across from the park. Here are some shots of the afternoon:

After dinner I met a large number of Ukrainians playing music, singing folk songs and asking for peoples’ help in their war against Russian aggression. They were super nice and extremely grateful for my help there four years ago. One, Roman, asked me to hold the flags he was carrying after I asked to photograph him. Great guy who’s completely heartbroken about the war.

This is the center of the universe for sardine lovers. Incredible store and contents. It was like Disneyland inside. A shipment home was a must…

I was whooped after the travel and time change, and hit the sack for a 6 am car to the airport and flight to Marakkech to officially begin my journey. Next stop – Morocco….

Morocco 2026

I’m off to Morocco for a month in several weeks. I’ve read forever about how alluring a place it is, and I’m really looking forward to the scenery, geography, people, culture, art, food and unique north African vibe.

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