After three weeks of traversing Morocco, it was finally time to explore and dig into Marrakech, which many consider its crown jewel. In a word, the city is amazing. Marrakech is both elegant and chaotic, beautiful and endlessly rustic. It’s fascinating to see people (mostly men) riding a donkey, with a full cart of something in tow, down an avenue, smart phone in hand, with grand hotels and parks all around. The juxtaposition illustrates that Moroccans today live in and straddle two worlds – that of ancient history and customs fused with today’s frenetic, modern pace and conveniences.

Everyone in Morocco is a merchant. If you want to buy something, you are expected to bargain, no exceptions. Berbers are the most tenacious that I’ve met; once you start down the path of inquiry about one of their goods, it is the equivalent of entering the event horizon of a black hole – there is no escape unless and until the sale is closed. In a way it’s engaging and fun, and it is all completely good natured, as Moroccans are incredibly polite and well mannered. You just need to make sure that the item you inquire about is something that you’ll be happy to buy, because walking away from a potential sale in virtually impossible.

The goods available here are mind blowing. Artisinal craftsmanship abounds and jewelry, fabrics, shoes and clothes that you just don’t see elsewhere (at least on my travels) are everywhere. Quality varies, depending on location, as each region and city specializes in goods that are related to their own natural resources, but overall, the quality of things offered is high, and the goods impressive.

So, enough chatter… Here are some photos of interesing sights taken in during the past two days in Marakkech:

Moroccan doors are intriguing and beautiful. No matter where I’ve visited, people take great pride and creativity in showing theirs to the world.

The largest mosque in Marrakech. The minaret stands over 430 feet tall. Calls to prayer occur five times a day here – at approximately 5:30 am (good luck sleeping through those); at noon, before and after sunset and around 9:30 pm. You can’t avoid them, and if your riad or hotel is close to a minaret, you’re toast – you’ll be very well aware of the plaintive wailing and song emanating from within.

La Mamounia, the first hotel in Morocco, which has repeatedly been voted best hotel in the world. It is truly a trip.

Its gardens. Stunning trees and plants from near and far mesmerize you as you stroll its grounds.

Salam, brother. Wassup?

Our riad, deep within the medina. Family owned and a very special experience.

Head on a pike. Not – just a way to market a beautiful headdress.

The fascinating dichotomy of urban life – these guys are everywhere, trotting alongside cars, buses, motor scooters and trucks. A true throwback.

After leaving Marrakech, we headed to Essaouira (pronounded Ess-wara). En route, we stopped for a bite. Amazingly delicious food, with multiple tangine pots firing up all kinds of scrumptious fare.

In the medina of Essaouira. I was here with Scott last week, and it really enchanted us. So nice to be back, as it is provides a beautiful beach town vibe that charms in so many ways.

Essaouira’s doors are perhaps the coolest I’ve seen in Morocco, each so different and interesting.

This gent was making lotar and guembri. It was fascinating to watch him.

Rugs and endless beautiful fabrics are everywhere. You almost have to take a rug or two home.

Inside a typical riad.

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An antique shop we popped into (no photos allowed…) that felt like a museum. They sold antiquities and truly remarkable furnishings.

My favorite door of the trip so far:

Well, we’re off for hamman and massage. Scott and I partook last week and the spa we went to was really great. Can’t wait to get back into the zen state and feel like a newborn again….

We shove off for Casablanca tomorrow. The last hurrah…. Deborah will return to the States and I’ll move onto Spain for eight days. It’s been really fun traveling weith her, as we’re super close, old friends and she’s been to Morocco numerous times, so she was a great tour guide in several places, including Marrakech.

I’m very excited to speak Spanish 24/7 and immerse myself in all that is so wonderful in Spain. Next blog entry will be from España…

Scott chose our itinerary for his stay, so we left Chefchouen and headed south towards the desert. En route, we visited Volubilis, a UNESCO third century Roman administrative center that is marvelously preserved. It was enormous compared to other Roman towns I’ve seen, and it really impressed. They really did build to last…

We could almost hear the voices of ancient Romans mulling about and planning their next conquest. It was truly amazing to contemplate the Empire’s expanse back then.

After Volubilis, we headed to Fez, Morocco’s spiritual capital and home to the world’s largest medina. Nowhere else on Eatrth can you wander so far in a pedestrian only mall. Fez is the leather tanning and manufacturing center of Morocco, and its craftsmen and women are everywhere. A really unique visit.

After Fez, we were off to Merzouga, where the Sahara Desert overtakes the continent and which sits four miles from the Algerian border. Merzouga was surreal – forlorn and incredibly stark, yet inviting and warm at the same time. The heat somewhat overwhelmed, yet we headed out into the vastness to explore and learn.

This was a desert oasis miles from Mezouga. Underground water provides life where you’d never believe it could exist. Truly amazing.

Off for a camel rise at sunset. These are really cool creatures. Almost exclusively males, after castration chills them out, (bummer, doods), they appear and feel totally prehistoric in their movements and disposition. Pretty wild buckin’ along on them.

This is the tallest sand dune in the entire Sahara. I jumped it on the quad….

Scott has been an awesome companion and navigator, taking us to great places all week.

After the desert, we headed towards the High Atlas Mountains again and Ait Ben Haddou, another ancient UNESCO town that is incredibly preserved. Game of Thrones and Gladiator were filmed here (I know, big whup), and it has a completely otherworldly feeling.

We’re off to Essaouria today, on the coast, as we wend our way back to Casablanca for Scott to head home. Here’s the trip so far. After landing in Morocco, I headed south to imlil in the HIgh Atlas, then west to the coast. We’ve traveled a lot, with more to come as Deborah arrives in five days. More fun to come. Stay tuned….

After an early morning flight from Lisbon, I landed in Marrakech Sunday morning. Smooth sailing through the airport and car pick up and I was off to the races.

Since Scott wasn’t arriving until Tuesday, I decided to head for the mountains to do a little recon and spend time up high. The Atlas Mountains in Morocco are the highest in northern Africa. The biggest peak, Jbel Toubkal, stands at 13,671′ and is snow capped year round. The drive up from Marrakech, although only fifty or so miles, is very windy and slow going. Here was my introduction to the landscape, driving through small mountain towns along the way:

My bro Mohammed, a geologist who I met on the way up to Toubkal. Incredibly nice fellow, and he spoke very good English. He showed me the gorgeous geodes, fossilized stones and polished pieces he had excavated and sculpted himself, and we engaged in haggling (de rigueur in these parts) for an hour on and off. He was quite tenacious, but in a really charming way. He wanted me to buy everything he had on his motorbike and in his djellaba. Miraculously, I got away with buying only one super cool polished stone that contained a large fossilized anthropod (in my hand below). I will treasure it and remember him by it.

I stayed in the town of Imlil Sunday night, which is the gateway to Jbel Toubkal and the highest peaks in Morocco. Pretty amazing place, and finding my hotel took over an hour because I had to walk a half mile to it after parking my car, which confused the hell out of GPS. The crew there were incredible – warm, kind and very inquisitive about California and the States. We had a lot of fun together.

The next morning, yesterday (I’m still a bit jet lagged from the journey and time zone change), I set off for the coast, as I was picking up Scott this morning in Casablanca. Beautiul drive through lush countryside with many goat and olive farms along the way. Here are shots from El Jadida, a pretty beach and fishing town south of Casablanca. Outdoor tagine cooking up in mini pots:

The Portugese Cistern in El Jadida. It was built as an enormous fort in 1541 and lies beneath the Citadel. Very neat.

Chillin’ –

Bummer, dood…. I met the local constabulary en route to Casablanca. Came into a roundabout too hot and got busted for 68 (Km/hr) in a 60. That was the bad news. The good news was that the fine, payable on the spot, was only 150 Moroccan Dirham (~$15.00 US). Very nice guys, notwithstanding the circumstances. A not so quick getaway then ensued…

Heading north:

Casablanca is home to The Hassan II Mosque. Its minaret, at 689′, is the world’s second tallest. It’s just immense and a bit disorienting in size, and it definitely makes you feel small, which I love.

Inside:

After the Mosque, we had a great Moroccan fusion lunch. Here’s Scott on one hour of sleep after arriving early this morning.

Abdul, our host:

Yes, that Rick’s Cafe:

Scott goofing around at our AirBnB:

So, I’m three days into my month long stay and have a few preliminary observations about the country and people. Moroccans are incredibly warm, kind and helpful. It’s really a pleasure being here so far. They’re just generally super nice people. The countryside is beautiful. It’s a great time of year to be here – after the winter rains, with the snow melt greening things up, and it’s delightfully cool now. Casablanca is a big, boisterous city with all that connotes, but it has a great vibe and its fun being here. History is everywhere you look.

We’re off to Rabat, then Chefchaouen in the next several days. Should be really fun. Heading out to dinner. More to come soon.